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Leon's Burgundy @ Medlar

The Medlar, London

Tasted May 2, 2013 by SimonG with 599 views

Flight 1 - Aperitif (1 note)

White - Sparkling
1998 Pol Roger Champagne Blanc de Chardonnay France, Champagne
90 points
Nicely rich, creamy, slightly appley bready nose. A little spice and ginger sitting behind it. Quite rich and rounded through the front of the mid-palate. Finishes a little short with a nicely refined touch of honey. ***1/2

Flight 2 - Crab raviolo with samphire, brown shrimps, fondue of leeks and bisque sauce (3 notes)

White
2000 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
88 points
A pale (or rather, a darker) imitation of my last coupled glorious bottles of this. Quite a full gold. A little volatile and advanced on the nose. Quite rich, full. Nicely dry. Evolved but just about holding on. Good with the crab raviolo. Some heat coming through on the finish. ***
White
1999 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ-Canet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
93 points
Again, full gold. Slightly medicinal, honied nose. A pinch of herb. Dense, quite full, mineral edge. Full and long. More mineral through the mid-palate than the Lafon. ****
White
1999 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Gouttes d'Or France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
93 points
Pale gold. Nicely fresh nose, a touch of flint and smoke. Rounded, quite fat across the attack. Richer than the Sauzet initially tough it des tighten up after an hour or so, focussing and becoming more mineral. ****

Flight 3 - Roast poussin with sautéed spatzle, caramelised shallot, grilles and cauliflower purée (4 notes)

Red
1976 Faiveley Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Porêts Saint-Georges France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
92 points
Mid to full garnet. Sweet and savoury nose with an earthy depth. Almost a touch of orange peel. Sweet, mature. Very harmonious. Not tremendously complex but enough to keep this interesting. Lovely. Sediment is very minty. ****
Red
1976 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune 1er Cru Grèves Vigne de L'Enfant Jesus France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
89 points
Full garnet, almost dull ruby. Looks far younger than the Faiveley alongside. Tighter and more focused on the nose. A touch of orange juice. More focused on palate too. Redder fruit. Quite dry on the finish. Hasn't quite got the fruit to cover the acidity and relict tannin. Getting a tad astringent with air. Looks younger in the glass than the 98 Giradin CdlR. ***
Red
1998 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Clos de la Roche France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
flawed
Cloudy. Mid garnet. Very sweet nose. Decay. Muddy. Prominent acidity. Some tannin in there too. Really don't think this is right. Out of condition. Volatile too.
Red
1998 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combe aux Moines Vieille Vigne France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
flawed
Corked.

Flight 4 - Rack of lamb with confit shoulder, tongue, petit pois a la francaise and jersey royals (3 notes)

Red
2001 Domaine Francois Lamarche Clos Vougeot France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
92 points
Red fruit. Quite tight and inexpressive initially. Bright red fruit and good acidity. Lean, a long distance runner as is the GE. A family style here. Needs time. Very much in the mineral, elegant mould. **(**)
Red
2001 Domaine Francois Lamarche Grands-Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru
93 points
Similar to the Vougeot, a little richer on the nose. Similar bright red fruit and vibrant acidity. Another long distance athlete. **(**)
Red
2009 Maison Ilan Bourgogne Lees Wine France, Burgundy, Bourgogne
89 points
Served blind. Sweeter, and a little richer in the caramel vein. Quite mellow and rich, some caramel across the middle. Fat and leggy. Fragrant, quite lifted. A softness to it. Well disguised for a burgundy, though to be fair it is made from the lees at the bottom of the barrel. A non-commercial blend of Chambertin and Charmes dregs. Fun but atypical. ***
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Flight 5 - Cheese galore (5 notes)

Red
2000 Domaine Robert Arnoux / Arnoux-Lachaux Clos Vougeot France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
91 points
Deep ruby. Very dense. Polished and glossy. Modern. Full and rich. A touch of TCP on the nose. Not my thing but clearly making a statement. *** to **** depending.
Red
2000 Domaine Ponsot Griotte-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru
flawed
Corked.
Red
2000 Domaine Ponsot Chapelle-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru
94 points
Lighter than the Arnoux. Full garnet. Very fragrant, floral, a little wild. Beautifully rounded and fragrant. Just on the right side of lush. Lovely. ****1/2
Red
2000 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
93 points
Slightly lighter garnet, more evolved, a slightly minter nose. Nicely evolved. A little leaner than the Charmes. More trim. Elegant and long. ****
Red
2000 Arcadian Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
92 points
Served blind. Bien Nacido vineyard, Jill's Cuvée. Pale mid garnet. Quite evolved on the nose. Slightly sweaty, cabbages. Sweet fruit and a touch of caramel on the nose. Reminds me of an 89 Cathiard Aux Reignots on the palate, perhaps with a touch more caramel. Very nice indeed and very Burgundian. ****
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Flight 6 (1 note)

Red
1998 Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Ursules Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
92 points
Mid ruby. Red fruit, a touch of mint, nicely focused and bright. Good red fruit. Focused without being in any way angular. Opens through the mid-palate. Quite long. Fresh finish. Lovely and showing well in the company. A long. ****
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