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Rupert's Bosconia

The Medlar, London

Tasted September 30, 2013 by SimonG with 328 views

Flight 1 (1 note)

Gougeres

White - Sparkling
1988 Philipponnat Champagne Brut Clos des Goisses France, Champagne
94 points
Light gold with a touch of bronze. Lovely. Rich, smooth. Lovely line av focus, a touch oxidative on the mid-palate in a complexity-adding way. Very long and fine. Gentle spice towards the front end. A touch of toasted nut and cream. Just lovely. ****1/2

Flight 2 (2 notes)

Partridge boudin blanc with Savoy cabbage, bacon and carrot purée

Red
1964 R. López de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Bosconia Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
95 points
Gorgeous nose. Very smooth and harmonious with dusty deep red fruit and just a touch of orange peel behind the Lapsang. Silky smooth entry, very elegant, long and plenty of fruit. Fine acidity. Wonderful. Ethereal, but so rounded. An almost statuesque beauty. *****
Red
1942 R. López de Heredia Rioja Viña Bosconia Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
95 points
Even deeper colour than the 64GR. Nose is more savoury, coffee and spicy deep red fruit. Coffee cream. Brighter acidity on the attack. A little leaner and brighter. More focus. More as one would expect. Lovely with the partridge boudin blanc. A slight frisson of unpredictability/wildness cf the 64s flawless beauty. Trad b&w label as per the GRs, but without the 'cosecha de' designation before the vintage, so suspected Res rather than GR. *****

Flight 3 (2 notes)

Roast grouse with game chips, bread sauce, pate and damson

Red
2000 Michel & Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
94 points
Gorgeous nose. Wonderful purity of fruit. Blackberry, blackcurrant and a touch of raspberry. Good acidity, very fresh. More red-fruited on the palate. Really quite long. Opening up to show the whole smoky bacon fat thing. Really gorgeous nose. Long and lovely. ****1/2
Red
1999 Bodega Catena Zapata Nicolás Catena Zapata Argentina, Mendoza
92 points
Deeper, darker, dustier nose. Deep ruby, almost purple. 82%CS and 18% Malbec. Deep, plush, cool-fruited front, but rich and ripe through the mid-palate. A touch of heat on the finish. A bit of blackcurrant leaf and mulberry on the nose to keep it fresh and interesting. Still improving. ****

Flight 4 (1 note)

Cheese

White - Fortified
N.V. Equipo Navazos La Bota de Amontillado 26 "Cinco años después…" Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
92 points
Burnished copper. Gorgeous nose, more oloroso than amontillado. Rich and almost creamy on the nose. Caramel, toasted hazelnut. A little leaner on the palate. Quite bright. Long. A little hot on the finish. One to sniff. ****
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