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Unusual Whites, A fine wine tutored tasting with Catherine Owen

Berry Bros & Rudd, London

Tasted October 18, 2013 by Papies with 553 views

Introduction

Catherine Owen presented a flight of unusual whites in the very usual quality of BBR tastings. Very interesting to see new grape varieties we would not normally go for.

Flight 1 - To Start (1 note)

White - Sparkling
2005 Gramona Cava Brut Nature III Lustros Gran Reserva Spain, Cava
85 points
2012 disgorgement. Mature and rich as expected. Had an oxidised feel to it and we found it lacking in energy, vitality. Interesting still. 85

Flight 2 - Italy with character (2 notes)

White
2007 Ciro Picariello Fiano di Avellino Summonte Italy, Campania, Fiano di Avellino DOCG
91 points
Low yields and no sign of oak here. Music to our ears. Quite a green/gold colour. Intense on the nose, green apple, light honey. Nutty feel too. A fuller wine, with character and purity of fruit, Very Good. 91+
White
2009 Fattoria La Monacesca Mirum Italy, Marche, Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva
92 points
30 yr old vines here, No oak and late harvested grapes.. Light golden in colour. Open but light on the nose, not an aromatic wine as such but still with an evident fresh nutty nose. Citrus edge too. Late harvest helps here and the wine has a full, ripe feel, lots of flavour and a creamy texture. Very balanced as a wine although 14% in alc level. Proper find from a grape we would never have ordered. 92

Flight 3 - Spain but not Rioja (2 notes)

White
2011 Pazo de Señoráns Albariño Rías Baixas Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas
91 points
Crisp, fresh aromatic wine. Light melon, peach and light vegetal on the nose. Lovely fresh character, mineral. Not the most complex wine and definitely one to have in its youth ( the producer advices within 3 years) but makes for very nice aperitif. a very nice find 91
White
2011 Bodegas Rafael Palacios Godello Valdeorras Louro do Bolo Spain, Galicia, Valdeorras
85 points
Quite a pale colour, light exotic on the nose, light green feel. 13.5% Alc but feels a hot wine. Not very inspiring and failed to make an impact. Average. 85

Flight 4 - Germany but Not Rielsing (2 notes)

White
2011 Dönnhoff Weissburgunder Trocken 'S' Germany, Nahe
88 points
Pale in colour. Mineral, citrus very good acidity here and definitely dry. Granted the acidity is enough to hide any residual sugar for the sake of the argument we shall call this dry. Sharp wine, firm. Interesting but not very memorable. 88
We preferred the pinot gris we had side by side.
White
2011 Dönnhoff Grauburgunder Trocken 'S' Germany, Nahe
91 points
A lot better than the Pinot Blanc we tried side by side. Dry wine.
Pale in colour. aged in large German oak barrels. Round wine, expressive, lacks the sharpness of the Pinot Blanc but that lack of sharpness makes it a much more enjoyable wine. Quite enjoyable 90-91

Flight 5 - Austo-Tyrolean (2 notes)

White
2011 Franz Gojer - Glögglhof Kerner Karneid Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol
87 points
The grape that is similar to Riesling but its not! Less acidity, but still a persistent wine (we will steal the term from Catherine Owen here), dry and focussed wine. Green apple feel, light exotic, tropical feel. Interesting but not great. Good match with spicy food. 87
White
2011 Prager Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Liebenberg Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
flawed
Corked unfortunately.

Flight 6 - The oldies (4 notes)

White
2005 Pazo de Señoráns Albariño Rías Baixas Selección de Añada Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas
91 points
Very interesting to see after the normal albarino which needs to be enjoyed very young. This expression of the albarino is the exact opposite and comes from 45yr old vines, ages 30m in old wood and then a further 12m in bottle. Good colour here, gold and gives you the feel of a vendage tardive wine. Nutty feel to the nose. Not much in residual sugar either and the acidity keeps that in check. Lots of ripe, rich fruit, creamy texture and on the concentrated side. Proper quality wine here. 91-92
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2002 Daniel-Etienne Defaix Chablis 1er Cru Les Lys France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
92 points
This was interesting find. Old vines, 40yr +, and spend quite a bit of time on its lees. No oak here and released after 6 years in bottle. Much like in a Terlano Chardonnay Rarita, the creamy side is added from good aging and old vines not oak. Light straw colour. Mineral, slate, good ripeness and concentration. Lots of aging capacity and this is a wine of character and purity. Not the most complex wine but still this is one to buy. 92
White
2002 Maison Roche de Bellene Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes Collection Bellenum France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
92 points
Dark honey colour. Green apple and honey nose. Very evolved nose, dense and rich. Quite full on the palate, well aged and with lots of presence. A very good wine and probably at its peak. 92 and drink now
White - Sweet/Dessert
1996 Royal Tokaji Wine Co. Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos Mézes Maly Hungary, Tokaji
95 points
Dark caramel in colour. Lovely sweet, dense nose and this is wine deserves its grand cru status. Good acidity keeps the sweetness in check and adds to the balance of this great wine. A proper wine and no need to say more. 95 and with lots of aging capacity.
1 person found this helpful Comment
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