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Millesime Bio Fair - Day 2
Montpellier, France
Tasted January 28, 2014 by isaacjamesbaker with 627 views
Introduction
Day 2 of the Bio Fair was equally awesome. I started off hitting up some of my favs (Chidaine and Domaine de la Pinte) and then moved around somewhat randomly, tasting whatever jumped out at me. At this point in the trip, I was quite exhausted, so I didn't hit as many producers as I would've liked. Still, some really good wines in the mix.
Flight 1 - Francois Chidaine - Loire (8 notes)
If I didn't visit Chidaine, I would've never forgiven myself. What a superb slew of Chenin Blanc wines.
White - Sparkling
N.V. François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Méthode Traditionelle Brut
88 points
White flowers, lemon zest and chammomile tea on the nose. Crisp and mineral-driven on the palate, with nectarine and melon rind flavors. Love the oceanic and mineral stream aspects.
White
2012 François Chidaine Les Argiles
89 points
Aromas of white peach and nectarine, mixed with crushed stones and slate. Crisp and pure on the palate, with melon and lime peel. So much mineral and sea shell flavors. Sexy, alive, sure to be long-lived.
White
2011 François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Les Bournais
90 points
I love this wine, and 2011 is another solid example. Floral, peach, nectarine, minerals on the nose. Peach and cantaloupe all over the palate, but also really tangy. Creamy, slightly nutty, with a bit more honey than the Franc de Pied bottling. Great length on the palate, this will open up a lot over the next few years, I'm guessing.
White
2011 François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Franc de Pied Les Bournais
90 points
Honey, floral, nectarine, apricot and minerals on the nose. Richly textured, honeyed on the palate with nervy acid and lots of limestone and rocks. Lemon peel and peach flavors, mix with limestone and lychee nut. Long and full yet sleek. For me, this might be just a hair above the regular Les Bournais, possibly a little more long-lived, but is it worth the extra money? Probably not, for me.
White
2011 François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Clos Habert
90 points
Peaches, honey, mixed nuts and crushed rocks on the nose. The palate is rich, but buttressed by clean acid. So full and floral, with complex apricot, peach nectar, nuts and herbal tea. Long finish with dried white flowers and clay soil. I'd like to try this wine with five years on it.
White - Off-dry
2010 François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Les Tuffeaux
91 points
Aromas of apricots, honey, yellow flowers and mountain streams. Richly textured, great freshness. Honeydew, nectarine and sweet peaches, along with white tea, flowers and crushed nutshells. Sweet but balanced, a bit low on the mineral content but still incredibly delicious.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2010 François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Moelleux
92 points
Deep aromatic display of honey, apricots and flowers. Rich and lush, but also balanced and pure, and not in the slightest bit cloying. Love the apricot, nectarine and pineapple fruit, mixed with cinnamon, lanolin oily undertones. Not a lot of minerality, but it's still amazing. One for the cellar for sure.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2010 François Chidaine Vouvray Moelleux
92 points
Complex aromas of honeycomb, apricot, nectarine and chalk. Juicy and rich on the palate with nervy acid. Flavors of honey-glazed pears, caramel, pineapple and lychee. Not too rich because of an underlying sense of chalk and minerals. Long and complex with a long life ahead.
Flight 2 - Domaine de la Pinte - Jura (8 notes)
Bruno Ciofi is the man, and his wines are so full of character. I was stoked to be able to chat with him for a good 40 minutes or so and taste through some wines that I hadn't seen before.
White
2011 Domaine de la Pinte Chardonnay Arbois Pupillin Fonteneille
91 points
A blissful and unique Chardonnay. A special selection from limestone and blue marl soils, it smells like dried apricot, clover honey, lemon verbena and crushed rocks. Rich texture but terrific acid and a pure stream of minerals throughout. Yellow apple and green pear fruit are matched with minerals, sage, lemon pepper and mountain stream notes. Such minerality and elegance. Love this stuff.
Red
2011 Domaine de la Pinte Poulsard Arbois de l'Ami Karl
89 points
Aromas of smoke, sour cherries, pickles, clay and a note that reminds me of red beet. All about the freshness on the palate, with crisp acid and lots of minerals. Tangy sour cherry fruit mixes with clay, tobacco and dried rose flavors. Not quite as good as I remember the 2010, but another delicious Poulsard from Bruno Ciofi.
Red
2011 Domaine de la Pinte Arbois La Capitaine
90 points
Light rose color. Smells like cranberries, rose hips and dried herbs. Such freshness on the palate, with tart berries and red apple peel, matched by notes of roses, dusty road and crushed limestone. So elegant and crisp with a tobacco-laced finish. A blend of Pinot, Poulsard and Trousseau.
White
2011 Domaine de la Pinte Melon à Queue Rouge Arbois Pupillin
90 points
Highly aromatic, with honey, peach and a floral-grass note that reminds me of daffodils and hay. Creamy texture, live-wire acid and such purity on the palate. Nectarine and honeydew melon mix with dried honey and peanut shell. I like to generous feel but it's still precise and elegant.
White
2007 Domaine de la Pinte Savagnin Arbois
91 points
Aromas of yellow apple, dried honey, wax and an aroma that reminds of wood after it's been rubbed with that lemon-scented dusting oil, as crazy as that may sound. Tangy as hell on the palate, but full and creamy. Green pear and apricot mix with nutty, dried honey notes. The wine spends 18 months on the lees and five years in barrel, although the oxidation is controlled and not overwhelming.
White
N.V. Domaine de la Pinte Arbois Cuvée d'Automne
90 points
Exotic on the nose, rich and waxy with lemon peel, smoke and floral incense. Nutty, complex on the palate with nectarine, dried pineapple and yellow apple. I get some nutty, dried wax notes as well. The oxidation is minor, and as Bruno describes it, this wine is a fresher alternative to Vin Jaune. Really unique and tasty, this would be a great pairing with all sorts of cheese. A blend of 80% Savagnin from 2006 (some of which is oxidized) and 20% Chardonnay from 2008.
White
2005 Domaine de la Pinte Arbois Vin Jaune
91 points
Smells like nuts, hay, dried wax, lemon peel and white pepper. A complex mix of aromas. Full and waxy on the palate, complex, but full of fresh acid. Flavors of almond, lemon oil, sea brine and green olive combine in a unique package. Finish with notes of preserved lemon, nuts and graham cracker crust. Despite the oxidation, it's still fresh and subtle, and not overwhelming given this style. Delicious stuff, I'd love to cellar some for a decade to see what happens.
White - Sweet/Dessert
N.V. Domaine de la Pinte Arbois Vin de Paille Paradoxe
91 points
Aromas of glazed pear, peach, honey, preserved lemon and an oily-waxy note. Flavors of apricot, sweet pineapple, honey and mixed nuts on a full-bodied frame with lovely acid. I love the combination of freshness and fullness, and the sweetness is much more reserved and balanced than a lot of dessert wines. Caramel-laden finish. Bruno calls this wine Paradoxe because he says it tastes less sweet than it actually is. Delicious stuff.
Flight 3 - Random Self-Serve Whites (5 notes)
White
2012 Alta Alella Lanius
82 points
Grapefruit and white flowers on the nose. Peachy, green pear, some lime peel flavors. A bit flat though. A blend of Pausa Blanca and Chardonnay.
White
2011 Dominio de Punctum La Mancha Uno de Mil
85 points
Aromas of papaya, caramel and nuts. Rich and creamy on the palate, with mango, papaya, caramel. Six months in new oak shows. A stylistically bold wine, but it's fun.
White
2012 Weingut Diwald Grüner Veltliner Alte Weingärten
86 points
Aromas of white peach and white and green pepper. High acid, creamy body, with flavors of lychee nut, white pepper and some mineral notes. Decent length.
White
2010 Louis Sipp Riesling Osterberg
90 points
Strong minerals on the nose, smashed slate and lime peel. Superb acid on the palate, such freshness, with flavors of key lime pie, lychee and shaved lemon. A rush of minerals, like lime juice poured over mountain rocks. Great concentration and a long finish, this will do well with age.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2006 Sorelle Palazzi Vin Santo del Chianti Riserva
84 points
A nutty amber color. Rich apricot and orange marmalade. Very sweet, rich and nutty on the palate. Orange marmalade, apricot jam and baked graham cracker crust. Tasty, but lacking a bit of acid for balance.
Flight 4 - Random Self-Serve Reds (10 notes)
Snuck a few Italians in, as well as a few Bordeaux because the region wasn't very prominent at the fair.
Red
2011 Domaine Chapelle & Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Rouge
88 points
Aromas of strawberries, loam, white pepper and a hint of beef broth. Fresh and tingly on the palate with fine tannins. Cherry and strawberry-driven, with some significant mineral and rose petal notes. Tangy and brisk on the finish. Showing well, but perhaps a few years would help.
Red
2010 Fattoria Lavacchio Chianti Rùfina Cedro
88 points
Red cherries, spice and tobacco on the nose. Very fresh and silky with a nice tannin-acid ratio. Cherries, raspberries and red roses mixed with earth and tobacco. Long and elegant, drinking well.
Red
2009 Marchesi De Gregorio Sicilia Gregorio Maximo
85 points
Dark and meaty on the nose with roasted plum and an aroma that reminds me of caramel corn. Rich and dense on the palate with gritty tannins and low acid. Roasted plums, blackberry jam, mocha and toast. A bit big and burly, a blend of Nero d'Avola and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Red
2009 Erbaluna Barolo Vigna Rocche
86 points
Aromas of currants, earth, smoke and olive tapenade. So firm and grippy on the palate, with red currant and plum fruit. Soy sauce, olive and mushroom add some complexity. Really compact now, and lacking some acid, perhaps it needs some time.
Red
2011 Clusel-Roch Côte-Rôtie
90 points
Here we go: Aromas of green/black olives, pepper, lamb and roasted plums. Rich but also fresh and silky on the palate, with fine, firm tannins and crisp acid. Red currants and plums blend nicely with lots of olive, iron, roasted red pepper and black pepper. Long life ahead for sure, but I'm surprised at how well this is showing right now.
Red
2011 Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf-du-Pape
92 points
I wasn't expecting this to be so damn good, but it really impressed me. Dark berries on the nose, sweet roses, allspice and an aroma that reminds me of glazed ham. Juicy and fresh on the palate with gobs of cherries and raspberries and sweet figs. Earth, clay, lavender and incense add all sorts of complexity. I love the 2011 freshness, this is long and pretty and drinking very well now. Love it.
Red
2010 Château des Annereaux
89 points
Aromas of roasted plums, black cherries, tobacco and pepper. Plum and black currants, tobacco, loam some green pepper and sweet vanilla. Open and modern in its approach, but really well made.
Red
2010 Château d'Arcole
88 points
Deep currant aromas, with violets, loam and vanilla. Pure and fleshy with ripe tannins and medium acid. Juicy and ripe with vanilla-accented berries. Underlying tobacco and forest floor elements. Long, quite complex.
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Red
2010 Château Gaillard
87 points
Sweet plums, vanilla, clove and violets on the nose. Grippy tannins, with rich black cherry fruit and currant jam. A good amount of vanilla and oak, some iron and Fig Newton flavors as well. Needs time.
Red
2010 Château Franc Pourret
87 points
Rich and inky on the nose, currant jam, violets and tobacco. High tannins, high concentration, with flavors of currant paste and blackberries. Dark soil, tobacco and charcoal notes. Very young and concentrated, with a finish of vanilla and cedar. Big, needs time to unwind.
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Flight 5 - Virgile Joly (5 notes)
I had dinner with Virgile and his wife the night before and enjoyed their wines, so I stopped by to say hello and try some of the bottles I hadn't yet tasted.
White
2010 Virgile Joly Saturne
87 points
Fresh and clean on the nose, with green apple and clover honey. Nice richness on the palate, but still clean and mineral-driven. Crisp green and yellow fruit with honey and tea notes.
White
2005 Virgile Joly Virgile Blanc
88 points
Aromas of tangy lime, apricot and Brazil nuts. Crisp and clean on the palate with a waxy mouthfeel. Green melon and apricot flavors, with some nut and dried flower elements. This 100% Grenache Blanc is showing some complexity at eight years old.
Red
2011 Virgile Joly Le Joly Rouge
86 points
Smells rustic and smoky, with earth and charcoal dust covering the red berry fruit. Juicy and fresh on the palate with black cherries, very fine-grained tannins and medium acid. Nice earth, charcoal and chestnut flavors. For an entry-level wine, it's showing some nice concentration.
Red
2007 Virgile Joly Saturne
88 points
Smoky berries and rich earth on the nose. Rich tannins, medium- acid. Fleshy red currants, pepper, lamb hide, chestnut shell. Complex and peppery on the finish. Interesting blend of flavors on a solid frame.
Red
2002 Virgile Joly Saturne
86 points
Smoky aromas, a bit reduced, baked berry pie, sweet rose potpourri. Still strong on the palate, with a rich texture. Plummy, a bit baked, like cooked berries in sauce. Some dusty earth, smoke and leather add complexity. Different stuff, not sure how much longer this should stick around, but it's fun.
Flight 6 - Domaine Berthet-Rayne - Châteauneuf (7 notes)
This was my first experience with the CdPs of Berthet-Rayne, and it won't be my last. Some really nice wines spanning 2010-2013.
White
2013 Domaine Berthet-Rayne Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc
87 points
Fresh and floral on the nose. Juicy, richly textured on the palate, but tangy acid. Nice mix of green apple peel, melon rind and honey.
Red
2011 Domaine Berthet-Rayne Châteauneuf-du-Pape
86 points
Tangy berries and earth on the nose. Fine tannins, crisp acid, with flavors of black cherries, cola, clay soil, some leather. Just need a bit more length and complexity.
Red
2010 Domaine Berthet-Rayne Châteauneuf-du-Pape Domaine des Cigalons
90 points
Spicy aromas, with pepper, soil, fig paste and plum cake. Densely tannic with solid acid. Flavors of black cherry, coffee, iron, grilled herbs, smoked meat. Maintains a velvety texture, but great concentration. Staying power in here for sure.
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Red
2011 Domaine Berthet-Rayne Châteauneuf-du-Pape Domaine des Cigalons
89 points
More open than the 2010, with black cherry, rose and violet aromas. Fresh and silky on the palate, with black cherry, earth, root beer, leather, an herbal undertones. This has structure for the cellar, but showing a lot more accessibility than the 2010.
Red
2012 Domaine Berthet-Rayne Châteauneuf-du-Pape
88 points
Earth, smoke, plum cake and charcoal aromas. Juicy and rich on the palate, but firm tannic structure. I get flavors of berry compote, cola and earth. It's a bit dense now, and needs time to open up, but a very attractive young Chateauneuf.
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Red
2011 Domaine Berthet-Rayne Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilli en Fût de Chêne
90 points
More depth and intensity than the 2011 Cigalons. Smells of incense, smoke, plum cake, leather, black pepper, very complex. Fleshy and open on the palate, with firm tannic grip, a lip-smacking quality from the acid. Black cherry and currant fruit, some raspberry as well. Secondary flavors of rocks, iron and dried flowers. Complex, lovely stuff.
Red
2011 Domaine Berthet-Rayne Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Cadiac
91 points
Exotic aromas of tobacco, cola, violets, incense and pepper. Freshly textured with rich plum fruit. Tons of earth, fig paste, violets and sweet herbs. A really beautiful wine, it has some cellar potential but showing well young. 50% Grenache and 50% Mourvedre.