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2007 German Rieslings at the Magnum Society

Wellington, New Zealand

Tasted April 2, 2014 by HowardNZ with 509 views

Introduction

On Sunday, 23 March 2014 the Magnum Society held a tasting. Andrew H provided some excellent background notes and led the tasting. The wines were served blind without, and later with, food.

I also took samples of the wines home and drank them next evening.

Flight 1 (6 notes)

White
2007 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett #16 Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
88 points
Lightest gold in colour. On bouquet, a little kerosene, lemon, pear, minerals and a touch of honey. On the palate, pure with a sweetish entry. A nice smooth texture, showing some development. Good acids present, with some intensity. Reasonable structure with enough fruit weight and reasonable length. Simple, pleasant flavours citric and honey, tending lime cordial. Pleasant sweetness on the back palate. Relatively primary, with very ripe fruit, pleasant enough but lacking complexity and detail in the flavour profile. I don't think this will improve much with cellar time. My least preferred wine, 88. Same the next evening.
White
2007 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett Germany, Nahe
91 points
Colour darker gold than the other two Kabinetts. More kerosene aromas than the first two wines; below that notes of lemon juice, grapefruit, some rock melon and stone fruit, tending creme brûlée. A step up from the first two on palate, clearly heavier fruit weight, greater volume and depth than the other two Kabinetts. Also, greater viscosity, a nice texture, with a bigger scaled structure. Real purity. Very primary, perhaps a bit disjointed on palate, and a little shut down. Flavours of sweet stone fruit (but not cloying), particularly succulent Central Otago apricots. Very good, intense acids in balance; good length. I would hold this for a few years for it to integrate, 91. Held up well on the second evening, supporting my view about cellaring potential.
White
2007 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
89 points
Colour the second lightest after the Schaefer Kabinett. Some sulphur and kerosene on the subdued nose; notes of chalk, lemon and grapefruit juice, a little honey and talcum powder. Richer on entry to the palate than the Schaefer Kabinett, but ripe fruit and seemed relatively primary. Good fruit weight, again better than the Schaefer with nice acids and some back palate intensity. Reasonable length. Nice texture with some viscosity. Flavours tending pineapple and tinned peaches in syrup. Again my criticism is lack of complexity and detail in the flavour profile, 89. Worryingly, however, my sample had fallen over on the next night. I'm not convinced this wine will improve significantly with cellar time.
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White - Off-dry
2007 Joh. Jos. Prüm Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
93 points
Colour deepish gold. No turpentine aromas but a little sulphur on the nose (other tasters had this as heavy sulphur). A bouquet of peach and apricot, some fresh marine aromas, chalk and sea shells and some citrus notes. Very bright, ripe fruit on the palate. Flavours of apricot, peach and honey, similar to, but better than, the Dönnhoff Spätlese. A lovely, silky texture, with well integrated acids in good balance. A big scale example with good length but real elegance. 93. Also drinking very well the next evening.
White - Off-dry
2007 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese Germany, Nahe
92 points
Colour, with the last wine, the darkest gold. Initially on bouquet a whiff of turpentine that largely blew off. Aromas of citrus, tropical fruit such as pineapple and rock melon, a little spice, with some chalk, seashell notes and attractive minerality. On the palate, more racy acids up front. Again the profile is very ripe fruit but with a lovely, silky texture. Nice integrated structure, good acid balance with some elegance. Quite long. Flavours of rich, ripe tropical and orchard fruits on the palate. Again seemed quite primary and again I would have liked a little more complexity or development in the flavour profile. Cellar for 3-5 years +, 92. Drinking very well the next evening.
White - Off-dry
2007 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese #5 Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
93 points
Relatively dark, deep gold. Quite a neutral nose, with a little kerosene. Notes of white flowers (honeysuckle?), a little honey, citrus and nectarines. A very rich Riesling with a lovely, viscous texture. Very good fruit weight and concentration. Big structure, broad on the mid palate with a lovely acid balance and very long finish. Flavours of ripe tropical fruit, with some chalky minerality. This wine went beautifully with the food, which brought out the wine's sugars in a really attractive way. More complexity than I saw in the other wines. With this stuffing, I would cellar 5+ years. My (and the group's overall) WOTN, 93.

Closing

Overall Conclusion

I was a little disappointed with the wines as a set. On bouquet I was hoping for more varietal white florals, complexity and development. The wines seemed largely to be resting on their fruit, which seemed quite primary and lacking in nuance. The more simple wines aside, I would hope the better of these would develop more complexity with time.

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