Nothing surprising here: toasted biscuits, lemon peel, white flowers and notes of chalk. Tangy but creamy with flavors of lemon peel, sliced apples and apricot, backed up by notes of buttered biscuits, toasted bread and some chalky-mineral components. Always reliable and refreshing. Served from magnums.

Light salmon-copper color. Aromas of strawberries, roses, crushed seashells and salt water. Crisp acid, fresh fruit, somewhat salty on the palate, with lovely flavors of wild strawberries, strawberry jam, wildflowers, red apple peel and toasted bread. Juicy yet fine, clean and precise, with limestone and sea salt on the finish.

A hint darker than the non-vintage rosé. Aromas of strawberries, white cherries, rose hips and nettles, and I also get some slate and crushed shells. Lots of verve on the palate, very crisp and mineral-driven, a leaner approach but it’s still loaded with white cherries and wild strawberries. Notes of oyster shell, limestone, sea salt and grilled bread add all sorts of complexity. Lots going on here, but maintains elegance. Delicious with some cured Lobster and caviar.

Vibrant copper-salmon-orange color, a bit deeper in color than the 2004 Brut Rosé. Such aromatic complexity, it really takes time to open up and show its true stuffing: strawberries, apricot, red apple peel, limestone, oyster shell, sea breeze, biscuits and a hint of smoke. Tart acid on the palate, this is an intense wine but it maintains an elegant posture despite itself. Red cherries, currants and wild strawberries play off of minerals, chalk, oyster shell. Lovely toast and brioche, I get some really interesting notes that I can’t quite place, something like barley and sweet onions, but whatever it is I love it. Time coaxes out all sorts of complexity. A beautiful wine, but decades away from maturity. The Pinot in here comes from the Clos Colin plot of Bouzy, so it was fascinating to taste this wine alongside the still 2013 Clos Colin Pinot Noir.

A light cherry juice color. Almost Gamay-like on the nose, like a burst of bright strawberries and cherries with exotic flowers, minerals and chunks of rock. So silky and fine on the palate, with light tannins and refreshing acid. Red currants, white cherries, strawberries, the fruit is so bright and gushing. I love the mineral, black tea and rose hips though. This has a long finish with notes of oyster shell and a hint of tobacco leaf. I have no other Pinot Noirs with which to compare this – it is its own thing, a very pretty thing. All stainless steel.

Just a tiny bit darker than the Verzy. Nose of pure cherries and wild strawberries, a Morgon-like mineral and granite note along with exotic violets and roses, some lavender and potpourri. Tart and clean on the palate, with smooth and dusty tannins and high acid. The red currants and cranberry fruit is so clean and crisp and crunchy, and it’s laced with rose hips, limestone, black tea and an array of oceanic notes like sea salt and crushed shells. Long, zesty, just a tiny bit more structure than the Verzy. As a lover of lean and high acid Pinots, I find this to be a truly gorgeous wine.

Cherry juice color. Intoxicating nose of white and red cherries, wild strawberries, dried cranberries, not to mention the fall leaves, violets, nettles and graphite. The palate is incredibly smooth and clean while the acid is electric, well-structured by the dusty tannins. Red cherries and raspberries, so fresh, tangy and pure, backed up by complex notes of loam, truffle, cigar smoke and gravel roads. The minerality in this wine is intense, and the overall package is so complex. More black fruit than the other two wines, this is the most intricate and lasting, at the same time it’s so delicate and elegant wine. I’m stunned. This limited still Pinot (6 barrels) goes into Clicquot's La Grand Dame Rose Champagne.