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Dinner at HSA

Østerbro, Copenhagen

Tasted February 21, 2014 by beatles with 504 views

Flight 1 (3 notes)

White - Sparkling
2002 Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut France, Champagne
95 points
This absolutely cleared the table, all ready fully staffed with decent bobbles; a razorlike acidity, complete balance, notes of citrus, vanilla, butter and pear, a great blanc des blancs in the making - but it certainly was possible to drink also at this stage.
White - Sparkling
2006 R. & L. Legras Champagne Grand Cru Saint-Vincent France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
93 points
A complete wine, and a good showing, all though I remember it more overwhelming; fully mature with some notes of coffee and rye-bread, full bodied, round, very smooth and showing great length. Lots of life and acidity still, a beautiful lady of middle age...
White - Sparkling
1999 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut France, Champagne
94 points
IMHO this is one of the best champagnes made in 1999 - I have had it more than 10 times, and it never disappoints. Nor on this night, it is still clear cut, very blanc de blancs, rich, buttery and still young. It stands alone as pure enjoyment, no hard edges, no awkwardness, just elegance and subtle richesse. There is life ahead here, but there is no reason not to pour this one ... tonight or any other night.
3 people found this helpful Comment

Flight 2 (2 notes)

White
2007 Coche-Dury Meursault France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
92 points
As so often with the 2007's, this is open, quite forward - and difficult to place, certainly a very good white burgundy, growing in the glass, complete with notes of citrus, vanilla, minerality. Coche is always intense, also here
White
2007 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Gouttes d'Or France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
91 points
To young, IMHO; some spicyness and loads of minerality adds to the butterscotch flavors, the fruitiness is up front, but there is something waiting to unleash underneath. It will be better, certainly.

Flight 3 (2 notes)

Red
2005 Egly-Ouriet Coteaux Champenois Cuvée des Grands Côtés Vieilles Vignes Rouge Ambonnay France, Champagne, Coteaux Champenois
92 points
Tight and young, and certainly lighter than a typical wine from Burgundy in this vintage; it is clean, precise, stringent acidity and a very pleasing red fruit. I would leave this 5 years, minimum, to get more complexity.
White - Sparkling
N.V. Egly-Ouriet Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs Les Crayères France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
93 points
Powerful wine, served vis-a-vis the red pinot from the same producer - not a bad idea, this a masculine, very pinot, very food-friendly. Long life ahead.

Flight 4 (2 notes)

Red
2006 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
94 points
Albeit very young, this was a good showing from this wine; firm and precise, certainly far from showing the full monty, but with enough revealed so you could what's coming. The masculine Hermitage-character dominates with tobacco, chocolate, lives and a stony backbone, you' gotta love it.
Red
1999 Delas Frères Hermitage Les Bessards France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
This seems to be taking forever to come around - will it ever. My latest bottles of this has been very closed, very hot with an almost oxidative character, and this (from a different cellar) was all over the place and hard to define - sort of a mess, really, and i shall have to check in on one of my own pretty quickly.

Flight 5 (3 notes)

Red
1995 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
96 points
WOTN for me - an absolute showstopper, Still young, but majestic in it's youth with immense precision. Impeccable concentration, tel tale notes of tar and small red berries, more than hints of tannin - and it goes on forever. Will keep - if not forever, then at least 10 years. Bravo.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2010 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave St. Joseph France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
91 points
Just very, very young. Popped and poured (to shut me up, I think), and what you get now is just (!) very pure Syrah, concentrated and with length. If you want more, you must wait 5 years, aproxx.
Red
1999 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
89 points
Mature, balanced, quite light - and somewhat short, when you see the label; acidity is bright, there is tar, small red berries, txt book notes, but one is missing that little bit extra, that would put this in the exceptional bracket. had a really tough time next to the Monfortino.

Flight 6 (2 notes)

White - Off-dry
2002 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
93 points
Excellent wine with the precision of a razor-blade and an impeccable balance, citrus, minerals, an almost flinty backbone to this with the residual sugar just beginning to be absorbed - it is very young, still, but a joy, nevertheless.
White - Off-dry
2001 Hugel Riesling Vendange Tardive France, Alsace
90 points
Seems mature and forward, not nearly as precise as the Müller wine, but a very good glass of Riesling anyway; this has all the tell-tale notes of petrol et al. and still appears quite rich and sweet with the acidity fading in to the background. Will keep, but not forever - and not much reason to wait IMHO.

Flight 7 (1 note)

White - Sweet/Dessert
1997 Château Climens France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac
92 points
Drinking well at the moment; there is a lot going on here, tropical fruit, honey, quite intense style, but the acidity is still a live to keep everything in place. Not the majestic length, that you can find in really great Sauternes, but an excellent example of the genre, nevertheless.
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