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A Passionate Pilgrimage in Paso

Paso Robles

Tasted December 12, 2015 by wilypod with 628 views

Introduction

The Terrizzi family has a pioneering quest: to honor his Italian heritage, Brian is bent on producing in California great wine from three noble Italian varieties, Nebbiolo, Aglianico, and Fiano. Make no mistake, he wants to replicate their aromatic and noble characteristics. His wife, Stephanie, is a talented viticulturist and is skillfully and creatively adapting the California field textbook to varieties with surprisingly scant experience in the state. Having consumed a lot of Nebbiolo and Aglianico and Fiano in Italy, I was eager to sample these wines. The results are all distinguished and, with Nebbiolo, phenomenal.

Flight 1 (7 notes)

White
2014 Giornata Vermentino USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
89 points
Lovely vermentino, tart and juicy. Essence of grapefruit, fennel, Chablis like chalk, mouth cleansing and refreshing. Competition for the beautiful Tablas Creek effort, with a very full presence on the palate.
White
2015 Giornata Fiano USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
90 points
Tasted from the tank. Fat and fruity with excellent long haul structure. This had the characteristic Fiano markers of honeycrisp apples, and lightly toasted almond. The wine is in progress and more time in large format aging containers is needed. It seems utterly healthy, no signs of oxidation or funk, with excellent acidity and good extract. 88-91
Red
2012 Giornata Nebbiolo Luna Matta Vineyard USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
93 points
Excellent nebbiolo, very Italian in character. Light red with a darker blue-hued meniscus, bright sour cherry and violets, some English rose floral essence, brisk but not overwhelming tannin, and sturdy acidity framing a medium body, graceful rendition of a Barbaresco. Shared with some noted CA winery people, one of whom said, "probably the best California Nebbiolo he'd ever had."
Red
2013 Giornata Aglianico French Camp Vineyard USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
90 points
Aglianico grown in the warmer Paso East area. I was expecting a hot and asphalt tarry inkiness, over-extracted and overripe. NOT AT ALL. This is a refreshing, blue fruited Aglianico with a hint of warm cherry compote and quite juicy overall. Lovely crimson color similar to a not over-extracted Cabernet Sauvignon. The palate is not plush but fresh and brisk, closer in style to a central coast Pinot Noir. The tannins are pleasant and not overbearing. This is really fine wine.

Having consumed lots of Aglianico in Campania (Taurasi) and Basilicata (del Vulture), this come very close to the Italian profile, with fruit that is a little bit more candied and a little less savory. I also tasted the 2015 Aglianico French Camp from barrel which may be even better, and has the amarena cherry aromatics prized in Campania. Giornata is clearly on track to cracking the Aglianico code.
Red
2013 Giornata Aglianico Luna Matta Vineyard USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
91 points
Grown in the cooler West Paso hills on the steep slopes of Luna Matta vineyard. 2013 was a splendid growing season for Aglianico. Compared to the 2011 there is less of the dark, umami quality there and more blue and red fruit here. Especially telling for this variety are notes of the Italian wild cherry (amarena) not unlike one encounters in the Russia River Valley Zinfandels (e.g., DeLoach, Carlisle, Swan, Bedrock and Martinelli). If you like those wines, you may also really enjoy Giornata's Aglianicos. Make no mistake, the tannin sheath here is a little harder, but that is what makes it so food friendly, especially in winter.

Aglianico is variety which in Campania is traditionally aged three years in large format with very little new oak. Italian winemakers in recent years have trended to new oak barriques and greater extraction, obviously for the global market and under the guidance of consultants, but the traditional patient regime of large format neutral oak, produces really beautiful fruit driven wine that will survive the several years it may take for tannins to soften.
Red
2015 Giornata Aglianico French Camp Vineyard USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
90 points
Tasted from Barrel. Brian and Stephanie Terrizzi, who respectively form the winemaking and viticultural team behind Giornata, are making great progress in fine-tuning California Aglianico to achieve its old world potential. This is barely out of the fermentation stage, but looks on track for a wine of elegance. The French Camp tannins are softer and sweeter than those of their other vineyard, Luna Matta, so this wine should be approachable earlier.

Not all Italian Aglianicos are made for Robert Parker's cellar, and can be enjoyed in their exuberant youth; such seems French Camp. Nice Fleurie Gamay aromatics, with a sappy medium body mouthfeel. Promising. 89-91
Red
2011 Giornata Aglianico Luna Matta Vineyard USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
89 points
Grown in the cooler West Paso hills on the steep slopes of Luna Matta vineyard. 2011 was a cool growing season and this Aglianico more resembles the noble, tannic Basilicata Aglianicos than the more sensual (and often overlooked) Campania ones. Crimson with bricking edge, offering deep scents of dark fruit, earth, and fragrant underbrush. More tannic than French Camp. Will pair well with Italian Apennine cuisine - stews and braised meats, risottos, etc.
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Closing

Nebbiolo is an outright success. If you like Barolo or Barbaresco or even the leaner Nebbiolos of the Valtellina, you will find Giornata an excellent companion. On Fiano the results are early and promising, since the only example I tasted smacked of Fiano deliciously, but came from the barrel. The Aglianicos are promising as well and the latest versions are on track for reproducing the greatness of the best Italian Aglianicos: Taurasi and Aglianico del Vulture. I was enthusiastic about the French Camp Aglianico, which is a Beaujolais-like wine made to be consumed young, emphasizing the variety's fruit, with softer tannin. The Luna Matta vineyard clearly has potential for age-worthy Taurasi style Aglianico. It is exciting to follow the Terrizzi's passion and pilgrimage.

In addition, the Terrizzis produce excellent Vermentino, Barbera, and Sangiovese, where a lot of the pioneering work has been already done and Giornata's results are the equal of anyone else.

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