Magnum. Light golden. Gentle mousse. Baked apple and caramel. Medium to full bodied, more oxidative notes than recently disgorged Initial but similar flavor profile and creaminess. Outstanding, completely mature Champagne-a New Year's Day treat!

Medium yellow. Dry stone fruit and herbs. Weight somewhere between Federspiel and Smaragd. More vegetal than fruity in the mouth with average acidity. If tasted blind, I would have been more likely to guess Grüner Veltliner than Riesling.

Light yellow. Interesting mix of yellow fruit, floral notes, and a light dusting of herbs. Medium weight-at the same time mouth coating and still retaining a sense of lightness. Dry, serious, and good soil base but only average acidity. The concentration is there for me but not the tension.

Medium yellow. Once again, more yellow pear than citrus with some rising salinity. Fairly full, enough acidity to avoid the blowsy, fat feel of some wines of this vintage, subtle but increasing brothiness as it sits in the glass. Like other wines from Dauvissat in big, ripe vintages, I think age has helped pare it down and make it more attractively sleek and Chablis-like. Still, this was well behind an '06 Raveneau Butteaux poured along with it.

Medium yellow. Lovely nose of flowers and orchard fruit. Medium weight, chalky base, fine rendering of Chablis saline quality, and excellent acidity for the year. The additional aging from 2012 through the present has really helped bring this wine into focus. When last tasted in 2014, I never thought it would lose its more tropical character and show as more classic Chablis. I was wrong. This was my last bottle, but I can see it hanging in there for at least another 2 to 3 years.

The remainder of a bottle opened last night. Light red with some browning. Some distant red fruit and spice, but mostly soil. Acidity is not harsh. Underwhelming, which unfortunately is my most common reaction to Lafarge Volnays.

Opened last night. Pale red with tawny edge. Both aromas and palate dominated by earth and herbs. High acidity and only a thin veneer of reddish fruit. Not much to it at this point. Is it closed?