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Huets... 1959 and older
Racines, NYC
Tasted March 19, 2016 by mdefreitas with 431 views
Flight 1 - STARTER WINES (2 notes)
White
1997 François Pinon Vouvray Sec
89 points
A bottle left over from the previous night. A good showing but this was probably better yesterday; today it was showing some advancement with a lot of apple cider characteristics. A bit sour, but pleasingly so, and the acids are quite good here.
White - Sparkling
2010 Domaine Huet Vouvray Pétillant Cuvée Huet Brut
90 points
Quite enjoyable, with good freshness, clarity and cut. Mostly fruity at this point, with pear and apple notes, but the bubbles are small and this possesses a relatively refined mouthfeel.
Flight 2 - FOIE GRAS (1 note)
White - Sweet/Dessert
1924 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux Le Haut-Lieu
97 points
(Acquired from a Zachy's auction) My goodness... this was such a fantastic bottle. So youthful, complex, deep and refreshing. This is still pumping out fleshy, pulpy fruits like orange, apricots and lemons. Complicating notes of pine, herbs, citrus pith, marzipan and lemongrass appear on the palate. Super acidity and fanatical cling on the palate. Very close to wine of the night.
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Flight 3 - LOBSTER (2 notes)
White - Off-dry
1953 Domaine Huet Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Mont
92 points
(Acquired from The Rare Wine Company a few years back) This wine had to unfortunately follow the stellar 1924 Le Haut-Lieu Moelleux, and since it was not as opulent as that wine, it suffered a bit in comparison, but this was excellent in its own right. Lean and linear and a bit un-giving on the nose, but the palate showed great precision and focus. This got better as it sat in the glass and showed quince, minerals and some Asian herb notes. High toned and a real palate refresher.
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White - Off-dry
1939 Domaine Huet Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Haut-Lieu
85 points
An odd showing, as this did not have much of a "Vouvray" profile, but more of a fino sherry quality. Perhaps a bad bottle, but since I enjoy sherry, this did not put me off... your mileage may vary. This was searing dry and almost "brittle" on the palate, with hints of diesel and rancio, but the acids are sharp and keeps this wine alive and kicking. An odd wine that provided some odd pleasure.
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Flight 4 - SWEETBREADS (2 notes)
White - Off-dry
1959 Domaine Huet Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Haut-Lieu
flawed
A bit compact and attenuated, not really giving much on the nose. A bit mushroomy on the palate with some anise notes. Others in attendance have had better bottles of this and I can only assume this is not a representative bottle. Not rated.
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White - Off-dry
1949 Domaine Huet Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Haut-Lieu
flawed
Dark in color and very short on the palate. Flat without much vibrancy. Some light hints of TCA. Flawed and not rated.
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Flight 5 - CHEESE AND DESSERT (3 notes)
White - Sweet/Dessert
1949 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux Le Haut-Lieu
89 points
Good, but not excellent. Bright, citric and crisp, with nice minerality and classic "wool" notes, but a bit severe and lean on the palate.
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White - Sweet/Dessert
1959 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux Clos du Bourg
flawed
A bit frustrating that there were a number of underperforming bottles in this tasting, but I suppose this is to be expected with older bottles. This one was a bit disappointing, with nice chalky notes, but again a bit emaciated, lean and thin. Very clipped and reticent. With some great notes her on CellarTracker, I can only assume this is unrepresentative and thus not rated.
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White - Sweet/Dessert
1947 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux Le Haut-Lieu
98 points
(Acquired from The Rare Wine Company in 1996) My second and last bottle of this legend and I am pleased it showed better than my first. Very deep and dark in color, but the nose and palate were glorious. This exploded with apricots, honey, white raisins and a hint of caramel. Seems like a lot of botrytis here, but the oily richness is expertly counterbalanced by the razor-like acidity that adds structure, definition and poise . Lip-pursingly good and ridiculous length. Slight edge over the 1924 for WOTN, but it was close.
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