Fresh smelling and very pure tasting, with flavors of golden fruit and raw nuts, and with a vibrant saline mineral underpinning. But with 15 minutes open the flavors veer towards apples and the style is distracting - oxidative.

Based on 2010 - a very good showing, with more focus and articulation than the 2012 and still with a saline chalky pungency. Almost devoid of fruit at this point. It's all about chalk and salt. But in a good way.

The best of the lineup, I believe. Super clean and intense aromas and flavors that approximate green fruit but really just use fruit as a way to articulate the salty chalk and clay of the soils. Delicious, vibrant, energetic, intense wine. Clearly in the oxidative style but here it works beautifully, and does not distract from what the juice is saying.

Very hard to get a read on this wine. To be optimistic I would say that the wine is still very much closed, and does not yet express much in terms of fruit, and although it shows plenty of saline minerality, it just is not ready.

To be less optimistic, and to state my opinion, the wine simply does not offer enough to justify the $200 price tag. It does not differ significantly in aroma or taste from the NV Brut Nature, although it does seem to offer a more ample body. It shows the same mineral signature as those other wines, which is reasonable, but it seems again to showcase an oxidative wine making style more than it does articulate detail of fruit and other flavors. Why pay $200 for that when it can be had for $85 in the Brut Nature? Maybe I just did not understand the wine - entirely possible.

This was the one I was worried about (supposedly a vintage for this wine that was problematic with odd aromas - peanuts, is what I heard). It showed very well, with joyous and bright floral aromas and lovely juicy fruit, balanced well by some salinity and acid. Not a profound wine but a very lovely one. Showed none of the savory brothy character that I experienced in previous versions of this wine.

Beautiful in its purity and clarity, and in its velvety sleek body and texture. Beautiful red fruit and also compelling Burgundian stemmy and foresty aromas. The palate shows less complex, but just as bright and balanced, and with a juiciness and lip smacking character that calls for another sip. As one drinker put it, this smells like a good old Burgundy and tastes like a good Beaujolais. Lovely.