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A private lunch

Restaurant Hertog Jan ***, Zedelgem, Belgium

Tasted June 17, 2016 by Xavier Auerbach with 354 views

Flight 1 (6 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. André Clouet Champagne Un jour de 1911... France, Champagne
93 points
Cuvée 47, bottle no. 753, exported to "Bourgogne Wijnen" in Edegem, Belgium. Much fresher than the bottle tasted in Oxford recently, clearly a recent disgorgement (5 October 2015, I later found out). Mature obviously, but remarkably fresh and floral, wonderful spicy complexity, weighty but elegant, with gentle mousse and firm acidity, substantial bitters, very good length. The booklet does not provide information about the vintages which constitute this cuvée, but I could well imagine that 2008 is at its core.
2 people found this helpful Comments (2)
White
2013 Anselmo Mendes Alvarinho Parcela Única Portugal, Minho, Vinho Verde
93 points
This is like drinking liquid silk, so effortlessly seamless and harmonious, fresh and gently mineral, creamy (some bâtonnage is in evidence) expressive aromas of white peach liqueur, orange zest and white flowers; dry but rounded, fragrant yet calm, light but intense, green herbs, the most subtle bitters, hint of aniseed on the long finish. Magnificent Alvarinho.
Red
2011 Bodega Abel Mendoza Graciano Rioja Grano a Grano Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
93 points
Rich and expressive nose, sweet black cherry fruit and spicy oak, cloves, glossy new world style, but develops a deep minerality in the glass; the attack is rich and sweet too, but the alcohol is moderate (13.5% ABV), the firm tannins are beautifully wrapped in flesh and there is wonderful freshness and minerality amid the smoky flavours; wonderful resonance and length.
White - Fortified
1938 Barbeito Madeira Boal Portugal, Madeira
93 points
Bottled October 2004. Wonderful Boal, intense and elegant, salty and woody, hint of cream, nutty but lively, tangy but with juicy candied fruit (especially for a wine that has been in oak for 66 years), elegantly sweet, long and floral finish.
White - Fortified
1976 Blandy's Madeira Terrantez Portugal, Madeira
92 points
Bottling date not indicated. Very brown colour, seems a bit tired almost; the nose shows some of the typical Terrantez austerity, but the palate is remarkably gentle and juicy, with a hint of caramel - the bitters and tangy acidity only kick in on the pretty hard finish. Impressive in its way, but it lacks some precision and complexity for my taste.
2 people found this helpful Comment
Spirits
1992 Filliers Graanjenever Vintage Belgium, Flanders, Brugge
90 points
Rye, malt and maize, pot still, distilled February 1992, bottled February 2013 (second release). Pale golden colour; gentle and malty nose, reminiscent of a lowland whisky, sweet and with lovely oaky warmth and depth; the palate is fiery and intense, big and flavoursome, rounded if not exactly charming or refined, but certainly powerful; long but hot finish. A powerhouse, but also a bit of a brute.
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