Chablis Tasting
Bergi, Latvia
Tasted July 15, 2017 by StasMedvedev.lv with 378 views
Introduction
The idea of the wine tasting was to look at the best 1er Crus and selected climats of Chablis Grand Cru through the best vintages of 21st century among hand picked winemakers, both well-known and rising stars. Also notice how Chablis develops with age. Find the answer to the philosophical question: Oak or not?
Flight 1 - Aperitif (1 note)
White - Sparkling
2008 Simonnet-Febvre Blanc de Blancs Dosage Zero
France, Burgundy, Crémant de Bourgogne
Started with this vintage Cremant for an aperitif. Intense yellow color revealing some age. Powerful aromas of brioche, apple and citrus. Apple pie. Ripe fruits on the palate. Mineral. Medium+ acidity.
100% Chardonnay fruit from Yonne in the north of Burgundy. 36 months on lees. Zero dosage. 2008 was the perfect year for the vintage - high acid and ripe fruits!
Very good example of vintage BdB Cremant de Bourgogne (~€20) as a good alternative to Champagne.
Flight 2 - 2013 1er Crus - Oak or not? (3 notes)
White
2013 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
The winner of the round. Well integrated oak. Still very young wine with green-yellowish color. Floral notes of white orchard, but the intensity of aromas is med(-). Mineral with remarkable freshness. Acidity is high. Elegant and round wine that will improve in 2-3 years.
Great terroir or Fourchame is located on Serein’s right bank and considered among the best 1er Crus. Wine matured both in steel and old French oak.
White
2013 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis 1er Cru Montmains
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
This one was on a steel extreme in style. Pale green color. Very pure fresh aromas of apples, floral and sea. Chalky intense minerality on the palate with some herbs. High acidity.
Indigenous yeasts. Vinified and matured in steel. Aged on lees for 12 months.
Wine is a lighter, leaner expression of Chardonnay thanks to the terroir of Montmains.
White
2013 Moreau-Naudet & Fils Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
This one was on the oak side in style. Intense aromas of ripe fruits, apricots, orchard blossom, oak. Palate is fleshy with texture, acidity is there.
Grapes come from 2 parcels in Vaillons (90% Roncières, 10% Sechet). The wine is aged and fermented in both tank & older barrels (70% in 2013). 50yrs old vines. Wild yeast, ageing on its lees for 18-24 mo.
Moreau is aficionado of Vincent Dauvissat and is very un-Chablis. Hard to find wine.
Flight 3 - 2011 vs 2012; Village vs 1er Cru (3 notes)
White
2011 Samuel Billaud Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Fresh medium-body wine. Flavours of citrus, white flowers, vivid saline and ginger both on the nose & the palate. High acidity. The wine with its own character.
15% new oak in 450-600L barrels, the rest is fermented in small stainless steel tank. Mont de Milieu is considered among the best 1er Crus.
Samuel is a rising star of Chablis - former winemaker at Domaine Billaud-Simon and his nephew, separated from the family in 2009 to start his own label.
White
2012 Gilbert Picq & ses Fils Chablis Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Chablis
Very good example of village Chablis with no oak. Bright greenish yellow. Medium intense aromas of plum, flowers, sea breeze with touch of spices. Firm acidity and texture on the palate.
Old vines (40yrs) and relatively low yield (50hl) for village wine give it enough concentration, but less depth compared to its 1er Cru siblings. It is hard to believe this wine hasn’t seen any oak.
White
2012 Gilbert Picq & ses Fils Chablis 1er Cru Vosgros
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Intense aromas of apples, citrus, peppermint. Palate supports the nose with some saline minerality. The wine with oily texture. Freshness is there.
My personal winner of the flight. This wine hasn’t seen the oak, but it is rich and reveals the beloved characteristics of Chablis. Definitely Gilbert Picq is the winemaker to follow. Purity of Chablis at its best.
2012 was a great vintage in Chablis you can start drinking and keep the best.
Flight 4 - 2012 Grand Cru (3 notes)
White
2012 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
My favorite of this round. Very fresh and charming. Width and depth of aromas: citrus and stone fruit, honeysuckle and whitepepper. High acidity, fresh and stone mineral. Not overly complex, still young and have just approached its peak where it will stay for a minimum of 5-7 years. Cellar a case of this successful vintage.
Grape picked from 2 parcels of Vaudesir climat. 60% matured in old oak and the rest in small steel tanks.
White
2012 La Chablisienne Chablis Grand Cru Grenouilles Château Grenouilles
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Almost in par with Fevre. Oaky in style, but elegant. Expressive aromas of white blossom, ripe stone fruits with touch of vanilla oak. Mid-full body with good acidity. Large volume won’t mislead you it is Grand Cru. Still very young and will evolve in years to come. Great potential of this flagman wine of La Chablisienne cooperative which owns 80% of Grenouilles climat.
20 months on fine lees, in vats and barrels.
White
2012 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Such a different Vaudesir from the one of Fevre of the same vintage. Opposite in style. Steel and pure, tight and nervous with mouthwatering high acidity. Seems to be more reserved compared to other wines of the flight. Aromas of acacia, white peach and citrus. Lacking weight and concentration, but with lots of air volume. Very approachable for this vintage.
Flight 5 - 2008 Grand Cru vs 1er Cru (3 notes)
White
2008 La Chablisienne Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
My personal winner of the round tasted blind. Yellow color. Vibrant aromas with smoky tones. Mineral and nutty. Rich and intense at its very peak.
Vaulorent is 1er Cru climat adjacent to Grand Cru and is located on the same hill benefitting from the Kimmergardian limestone soil.
My guess it outbeats GC because it is shining on its peak while GC hasn’t yet unlocked its full potential. And that is a bargain at €30 price tag!!
White
2008 La Chablisienne Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Very close runner-up of the round. The same vintage and the winemaker as the winner. And even climats are adjacent. Aromas of white fruit, sea iodine, lemon, brioche with rich, full and very classy medium-bodied flavours.
Just another great wine from La Chablisienne cooperative which amounts about 30% of Chablis production.
2008 is a great vintage which is ready to drink for Chablis Grand Cru.
White
2008 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Such a disappointment, but there is obvious premature oxidation, however the bottle was in a perfect shape. Level, label and the cork were just fine. I have heard that there were some problems with this very vintage with Les Clos by Fevre.
It’s a pity to have premox for the wine that was supposed to be the best of the night.
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Flight 6 - Grand Finale (1 note)
White
2000 La Chablisienne Chablis Grand Cru Grenouilles Château Grenouilles
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Absolute winner! Stunning gorgeous wine! Intense amber color reveals its 17yo age. Perfumed expressive fragrance of exotic yellow fruits, beautiful tertiary aromas of noble mushrooms. Charming oxidative tones. Wine is on the fragile edge of its peak. We got very lucky to enjoy its shining beauty. Very rich, full-bodied with pronounced acidity. It stayed for quite a long time in the glass generously sharing its flavours. Сoncluding chord of the night!
Closing
This wine tasting explicitly showed the difference in the hierarchy of Chablis wines between 1er Crus and Grand Cru. It proved that Chablis can beautifully mature. Majority prefered Oaky style over non-oak.
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