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Sauv. Blanc and Merlot Night

Bear and Star, Los Olivos, CA

Tasted March 8, 2018 by JonnyG with 337 views

Introduction

A fun but admittedly somewhat frustrating night, as the diversity within each variety made it such that it was hard to draw any real conclusions.

Flight 1 - Sauv. Blancs (8 notes)

White
2014 Desparada Sauvignon Blanc Beta Cassiopeiae. 2. f4 Presquile USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
87 points
An oddity to my palate, with some green notes not meshing well with the grass and citrus one expects. Sharply acidic, though did mellow out some with air. Very good persistence.
White
2014 Grimm's Bluff Sauvignon Blanc Reserve USA, California, Central Coast, Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara
91 points
A very grassy nose, muted on the palate, a touch sharp & unbalanced, which should improve with age. Very concentrated. Nice chamomile and honeysuckle notes emerged as it came up in temperature.
White
2015 Domaine Vacheron Sancerre Les Romains France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre
89 points
Decidedly old world, floral, light bodied and delicate, but almost to a fault to my palate, veering toward the ephemeral.
White
2013 Lis Neris Sauvignon Picol Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Venezia Giulia IGT
92 points
A super-interesting Sauv. Blanc, very primary and with loads of room for further improvement. A touch funky, green & reduced, very clean and round on the palate, expansive and fruity, with notes of sage and tomato leaf.
White
2015 Quivet Cellars Sauvignon Blanc McGah Vineyard USA, California, Napa Valley, Rutherford
85 points
Definitely not my style, though I like Quivet a lot (didn't bring this bottle). A ridiculously coconut nose, admittedly more balanced on the palate, with some lychee and other tropical fruits, but badly lacking acid (and typicity).
White
2016 J. Rochioli Sauvignon Blanc USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
88 points
Not my style, I'm afraid. A touch austere, shy fruit, hay, clipped finish, but clean. Maybe during a heat wave...
White
2014 Greywacke Wild Sauvignon New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
90 points
A good SB in all respects, but great in none. Notes of gooseberry and lime, too much oak for me, and virtually no persistence.
White
2010 Cantina Terlan Sauvignon Terlano Quarz Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Terlano
92 points
Needs a few more years to shine. A clean saline nose, no grass; a fine cool climate SB, sharp, herbal, still primary.

Flight 2 - Les Merlots (9 notes)

Red
1996 Carmenet Merlot Sangiacomo Vineyard USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
94 points
A superb bottle, fresh and vibrant, against all reason. A touch tawny on the edges, but no real evidence of being tired at all. A forward nose of yeast, balsam, soy and rich fruit, echoed on the palate, energetic and structured. A treat indeed.
Red
2014 Pahlmeyer Merlot USA, California, Napa Valley
88 points
Concentrated, huge, over the top. I expected more restraint and nuance.
Red
2015 Pride Mountain Vineyards Merlot USA, California, North Coast, Napa / Sonoma
92 points
Open for business already, lush and round with well integrated oak, a touch flabby but seamless & flamboyant.
Red
2013 Jonata Winery Fenix USA, California, Central Coast, Ballard Canyon
91 points
Opened too young, as this was very primary, with the components not well integrated. To revisit in a few years.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2004 Shafer Merlot USA, California, Napa Valley
93 points
Really impressive, silky, pure, balanced rich and structured, showing ripe currant notes, though it closed down a bit over time.
Red
2009 O'Shaughnessy Merlot Howell Mountain USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain
91 points
A bit too over-the-top for me, though clearly good fruit here. Oak-dominated nose, a bit more muted on the palate. Somewhat monolithic.
Red
2001 Feudi di San Gregorio Pàtrimo Campania IGT Italy, Campania, Campania IGT
93 points
An impressive bottle. Notes of tobacco leaf, herbal, textured, earthy, with good intensity and acidity.
Red
1993 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Masseto Toscana IGT Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
95 points
In great shape, gentle, Old World in style, fading slowly and graciously. Sweet, herbal nose (actually reminded me of a Hill of Grace), with just a touch of barnyard (mild brett, like sour cream). Smooth, loads of black fruit, endless finish.
Red
2000 Château Chauvin France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
89 points
A gentle, floral nose, cherry notes, a bit bitter on the rear palate. Starting a slow fade from here, I think.

Flight 3 - A Stickie with Dessert (1 note)

White - Sweet/Dessert
2009 Donnafugata Passito di Pantelleria Ben Ryé Italy, Sicily, Passito di Pantelleria
93 points
A consistent winner. Notes of caramel and apricots, a touch bitter, good depth.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Closing

My takeaway with respect to Sauvignon Blanc would be that I find length of finish to be the best indicator of a well made version, hardly a shocking insight, I know, but I was impressed by the persistence many of these bottles exhibited. With respect to the Merlot, it really was all over the place, many surprises, to the upside and vice versa. I'm sticking with Bordeaux and the Bolgheri, though Campania provided a wonderful outlier of a bottle, too.

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