Sauv. Blanc and Merlot Night
Bear and Star, Los Olivos, CA
Tasted March 8, 2018 by JonnyG with 337 views
Introduction
A fun but admittedly somewhat frustrating night, as the diversity within each variety made it such that it was hard to draw any real conclusions.
Flight 1 - Sauv. Blancs (8 notes)
White
2014 Grimm's Bluff Sauvignon Blanc Reserve
USA, California, Central Coast, Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara
A very grassy nose, muted on the palate, a touch sharp & unbalanced, which should improve with age. Very concentrated. Nice chamomile and honeysuckle notes emerged as it came up in temperature.
White
2013 Lis Neris Sauvignon Picol
Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Venezia Giulia IGT
A super-interesting Sauv. Blanc, very primary and with loads of room for further improvement. A touch funky, green & reduced, very clean and round on the palate, expansive and fruity, with notes of sage and tomato leaf.
White
2015 Quivet Cellars Sauvignon Blanc McGah Vineyard
USA, California, Napa Valley, Rutherford
Definitely not my style, though I like Quivet a lot (didn't bring this bottle). A ridiculously coconut nose, admittedly more balanced on the palate, with some lychee and other tropical fruits, but badly lacking acid (and typicity).
White
2016 J. Rochioli Sauvignon Blanc
USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
Not my style, I'm afraid. A touch austere, shy fruit, hay, clipped finish, but clean. Maybe during a heat wave...
White
2014 Greywacke Wild Sauvignon
New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
A good SB in all respects, but great in none. Notes of gooseberry and lime, too much oak for me, and virtually no persistence.
Flight 2 - Les Merlots (9 notes)
Red
1996 Carmenet Merlot Sangiacomo Vineyard
USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
A superb bottle, fresh and vibrant, against all reason. A touch tawny on the edges, but no real evidence of being tired at all. A forward nose of yeast, balsam, soy and rich fruit, echoed on the palate, energetic and structured. A treat indeed.
Red
2014 Pahlmeyer Merlot
USA, California, Napa Valley
Concentrated, huge, over the top. I expected more restraint and nuance.
Red
2013 Jonata Winery Fenix
USA, California, Central Coast, Ballard Canyon
Opened too young, as this was very primary, with the components not well integrated. To revisit in a few years.
Red
2004 Shafer Merlot
USA, California, Napa Valley
Really impressive, silky, pure, balanced rich and structured, showing ripe currant notes, though it closed down a bit over time.
Red
2009 O'Shaughnessy Merlot Howell Mountain
USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain
A bit too over-the-top for me, though clearly good fruit here. Oak-dominated nose, a bit more muted on the palate. Somewhat monolithic.
Red
1993 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Masseto Toscana IGT
Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
In great shape, gentle, Old World in style, fading slowly and graciously. Sweet, herbal nose (actually reminded me of a Hill of Grace), with just a touch of barnyard (mild brett, like sour cream). Smooth, loads of black fruit, endless finish.
Red
2000 Château Chauvin
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
A gentle, floral nose, cherry notes, a bit bitter on the rear palate. Starting a slow fade from here, I think.
Flight 3 - A Stickie with Dessert (1 note)
Closing
My takeaway with respect to Sauvignon Blanc would be that I find length of finish to be the best indicator of a well made version, hardly a shocking insight, I know, but I was impressed by the persistence many of these bottles exhibited. With respect to the Merlot, it really was all over the place, many surprises, to the upside and vice versa. I'm sticking with Bordeaux and the Bolgheri, though Campania provided a wonderful outlier of a bottle, too.
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