Blind. Some development here, but around a steely frame. A sense of richness for its age that suggests a blend rather than b de b. Mid palate creamy vanilla richness before a long minerally finish. Very good. ****

Unfortunately this was corked. There was a vital and quite rich wine being suppressed by the TCA.

Mid garnet with a browning rim. Moderately rich, mature Rioja, richer than 904 or Tondo, but not at CVNE VR levels. Very 73. Some orange peel, soft red fruit and gently worn leather. Long. Holds well. This is lovely — not worth holding on any longer, it’s gorgeous. ****

Full bottle. Pulled as a last minute replacement for the corked 52 Bernerana, so needed a little time to open and come up to temperature. A really lovely bottle with none of the VA that halves of this can show. Rich and complex. Just a shade of the level of the best bottles, but close. Super wine. ****1/2

Served blind alongside a (blind) 08 Man O’ War Dreadnought, this screams northern rhone syrah. Cool and elegant with a wild, slightly flighty streak to it that makes me think Cornas. However, as the MoW remains a rich Côte-Rotie styled wine, theChave develops over the course of an hour or so to really open up to a beautifully strong white pepper nose with a touch of raspberry liqueur. Very long and nuanced and fresh. Just lovely. *****

Blind. Dark ruby. Quite dense. Very scented and plush nose. Dark syrah fruit that seems ripe Côte Rotie in style. But apparently not. This is clearly the restrained end of new world. With air it takes on an incredibly strong and evocative scent of thyme, and gives a nod to the garrigue of the south. Plush and finely velvety dark red fruit. A slight sweetness and glycerol element too. Maybe just a pinch of alcohol on the finish though this sensation comes and goes. Very impressive for what it is, and great vfm. However, it stays pretty much as it is with no development in glass. Interesting and fun, but lacking the nuanced complexity of the Chave 95 alongside. This is a surprising find (reminds me of first discovering Boekenhoutskloof syrah at the same venue) and would be ideal with charred steak. ****

Deep ruby with a hint of full garnet at the rim. Beautifully smooth and fragrant. A whiff of the southwest. Initially a touch flat and slightly reductive, but this lifts and the Mourvèdre lets the syrah come in to play. Lovely texture and balance. Another new one on me, but really lovely. ****