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2018 Visit to Domaine Anne Gros with Julie Tollot

Vosne-Romanée

Tasted April 20, 2019 by HowardNZ with 334 views

Introduction

We raced over from Nuits St Georges to Vosne-Romanée. On arrival we met Anne Gros. We tasted with her daughter - Julie - who is full-time in the Vosne-Romanée winery. Julie was in New Zealand in 2014, working at the Akarua Winery in Central Otago.

We began with a barrel tasting of 2017s.

We finished with a tasting of some older, library wines that were open on the day.

Flight 1 - Tank and barrel tasting (10 notes)

White
2017 Domaine Anne Gros Bourgogne Blanc Clos de l'Eglise France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc
A negociant wine. A clean bouquet of pear, grapefruit, lemon and meadow flowers. Pure and clean on palate. Rich but straightforward and direct. Pear and nectarine, grapefruit and lemon citrus, some yellow apple. Nice acidity with a little minerality.
White
2017 Domaine Anne Gros Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Cuvée Marine France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
Twenty year old vines on sedimentary soil, said Julie. On the nose, crushed seashells, citrus, pear and wet limestone. In the mouth, lively acidity. Nice minerality. Mealy. Citrus and orchard fruit. Preferred over the Clos de l'Eglise.
White
2017 Domaine Anne Gros Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Blanc France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
Vines up to 50 years old, on limestone soil. An attractive nose. Straw, soil, lemons, peach and white flowers. Fuller, richer and creamier than the other two Bourgognes. "A good finish", said Mark. My favourite of the three entry-level Bourgogne blancs.
Red
2017 Domaine Anne Gros Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
Young vines on limestone, noted Julie. Mainly old barrels, only 25% new. A bouquet of raspberries and strawberries, tilled earth and a touch of spice. On palate, fresh and light. Fruit forward and earthy. Very soft, generous tannins. A nice, simple wine to drink in the next few years.
Red
2017 Domaine Anne Gros Bourgogne France, Burgundy, Bourgogne
Vines on four plots of land largely on clay. Some older vines here. A bouquet of ripe red cherry, red currant and baked earth. Bright and attractive red berry fruit and soil. Acceptable concentration. An enjoyable, straightforward wine. Julie said "normally you wait five years for this wine, here only two years, due to the vintage".
2 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2017 Domaine Anne Gros Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d'Orveau France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
A gorgeous nose - fragrant red and black fruit - fresh and breezy with smoky bonfire and violet perfumes. Drinking similarly, precise, polished fruit. Clean and elegant. Lighter bodied but bright and vivid. I had an interesting conversation with Julie about this cuvée in different vintages. I said that I liked it from a warmer vintage but less so in a leaner, cooler year. Julie agreed, saying "it is a special cuvée from an extreme position in Vosne-Romanée ... that benefits from a warmer vintage", noting she very much likes the 2003, 2005 and 2015. 2013 and 2016 were "catastrophic" vintages, with 2014 just "ok". We discussed the 2007, which Julie likes but "drink soon". She thought that the 2017 might drink similarly to the 2007, that I took her to mean, being attractive and accessible throughout its life, but relatively short-lived (around 10+ years, at its best).
Red
2017 Domaine Anne Gros Vosne-Romanée Les Barreaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
From a 0.39 ha vineyard with a northern exposure. Vines up to 75 years of age. Eight barrels. Aromatic with notes of baking spices, red currants, morello cherries under spirit and kirsch. Succulent, juicy red berry and cherry fruit. Decent weight and concentration. An good vintage for this cuvée, I thought. "It will cellar 15+ years", Julie said.
Red
2017 Domaine Anne Gros Echezeaux Les Loachausses France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
40% new oak. A fine, perfumed bouquet of dark cherries, blackberries and other dark fruit and dark spices. Packed with opulent, ripe, rich fruit and Vosne spice. Initially seeming approachable but there is an iron core here that will need significant cellar time (8-10+ years) to uncoil. Good fruit weight and length. A classy Echezeaux.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2017 Domaine Anne Gros Clos Vougeot Le Grand Maupertui France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
From vines many over 80 years of age, producing small berried, concentrated grapes at a yield of 20 hl per ha, Julie noted. Lovely, crunchy, mainly red berry, fruit. Clean, fresh and refined. A lovely bouquet of spices, florals and mainly red berry fruit. An excellent, relatively approachable vintage of this favourite cuvée on mine.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2017 Domaine Anne Gros Richebourg France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru
From vines half averaging 75 years of age, half 50 years of age. A beautiful bouquet, a melange of red and black fruit. Ethereal and complex with violets and other florals, cinammon and other baking spices. A delicate, refined entry to the palate. Only mid weight with ultra-fine grained tannins. Sparkling acidity. Far from a blockbuster. Nonetheless, to me, an elegant and cultured, high quality Richebourg.

Flight 2 - Library wines tasting (4 notes)

Red
2014 Domaine Anne Gros Richebourg France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru
Julie began our bottle tasting with a Richebourg from what she described as a "classical vintage". Another lovely, perfumed bouquet. Detailed with notes including blackcurrants, violets, tobacco, soil and barbeque smoke. Another excellent Richebourg on the palate, I preferred over the 2017. Mineral and dark fruited. Very fine. Not the densest Richebourg but with more matière and concentration than the 2017. "It needs 8 - 12 more years", said Julie.
Red
2001 Domaine Anne Gros Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
The Domaine had three special, old, library bottles open for tasting. "The 2001 was the first or second vintage for this cuvée", said Julie. Sadly, this bottle was not showing much. It was oxidised and cheesy, effectively dead and close to undrinkable.
Red
1993 Domaine Jean Gros Richebourg France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru
One of the very best wines tasted on the whole Italian and French trip. A beautiful, multi-layered, perfumed and ethereal bouquet of fresh and dried red and black fruit, violets and dark rose florals, black truffle, spices, with a little tobacco leaf development. A savoury entry to the palate, then an ultra-fine melange of red and black berries, plums and cherries, with chalky minerals and warm earth. Profound. Delicate. Multi-layered and very detailed. Right in its prime drinking window.
Red
1957 Louis Gros Clos Vougeot France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
The 1993 Richebourg was clearly the better wine but, in some ways, Anne's grandfather's wine was - for me - the more poignant, moving wine. A wine - still, very much, alive - but tottering on the edge of extinction. On a knife edge. A savoury bouquet of earth, dry brushwood, dried berries, cigar, dried mushroom, old leather and tartufi neri. Nothing on the bouquet or palate at all primary, fruity or sweetly perfumed. In the mouth, dry clay, dried red fruit, old leather couch, smoky, barbequed game meats, mushrooms and other savoury nuances. Complex and detailed. Fragile. The tannins fully resolved but they, the fruit and acids in balance. Beautiful.

Closing

Thanks to Liz for organising and Julie for the great tasting.

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