With Caviar Kim -- rice and tuna wrapped in crispy nori, topped with caviar: Nicely balanced, light bodied, with fine bubbles (though, because it was served by the glass in a restaurant, I don't know how long it had been open). There is a distinct honey element in the taste. Overall, easy to drink and a very good value.

With Jook, a bowl of rice porridge with foie gras and scallops: This is more like a new-world sauvignon blanc, offering an array of tropical fruit flavors -- pineapple, mango, passion fruit, grapefruit -- but without the sometimes offputtingly herbal elements, and with some of the semillon softness. Overall, it is a delicious wine, and an excellent value. The 2014 is perfect for drinking now.

With confit of Arctic char, over fish fumet, with leeks and asparagus: This seemed all the more minerally and nutty in contrast to the tropical-fruity sauvignon-semillon we had right before. This is a full-bodied, somewhat austere wine with moderate acidity -- it's like the rhythm section for the food.

With grilled lamb medallion and assorted Korean vegetables (including bean leaves with sesame, cabbage kimchee, and soy-marinated morel): The Rioja designation may be slightly misleading, as this is a lighter wine, with a significant portion of Grenache. It has some of the oakiness of the Lopez de Heredia riservas, but not quite the all-encompassing dry richness of those wines, though it also avoids all the sweetness of many Spanish Grenache wines. That being said, the Grenache and Tempranillo here create an energizing partnership, lighter-bodied, nicely structured, easy to drink, with flavors of wood, tobacco and mushrooms.

With the two desserts, yuja (yuzu) ice cream and coconut, and a glazed doughnut: A relatively light version of sweet tokaji, not less sweet but less rich. Well-balanced and tasty.