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Deep dive into Pomerol with Jane Anson
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Tasted March 8, 2021 by NickA with 186 views
Introduction
The session explored the different terroirs of Pomerol, starting with the lightest. Jean-Baptiste Bourotte was chosen to co-present as his family owns two estates in Pomerol (Clos de Clocher and Bonalgue), but not any of the wines tasted this evening.
Most of Pomerol is the famous clay, but there is gravel around the highest point at the NE of the appellation and sand at the lowest on the west. Stereotypically, the sand produces florality, gravel produces elegance and clay produces power. Only Petrus has solely clay terroir, and as such it’s actually not really the most typical wine of the appellation.
Flight 1 (6 notes)
Red
2009 Château La Pointe
93 points
La Pointe is from a lighter type of terroir. One of the larger estates in the appellation, it was taken over in 2007 and the wines have much improved. It has an easy-drinking reputation – typical Pomerol, but accessible. 85% Merlot, 15% CF.
Really gorgeous – depth without weight. Loads of cocoa, truffle, burned meat, in a featherlight shell. There’s enough structure, but it’s very approachable already – the sense of rigidity comes more from the darkness of the flavours rather than the tannins (although they are noticeable, they are incredibly silky). Good value.
Really gorgeous – depth without weight. Loads of cocoa, truffle, burned meat, in a featherlight shell. There’s enough structure, but it’s very approachable already – the sense of rigidity comes more from the darkness of the flavours rather than the tannins (although they are noticeable, they are incredibly silky). Good value.
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Red
2009 Château L'Evangile
95 points
Located where Pomerol meets St Emilion, on the other side of the appellation from wine #1 – there’s gravel here. It’s accordingly an early-ripening spot and they are early pickers, to maintain freshness and acidity – this is ‘only’ 13.5%.
Dark and smoky on the nose, with powdery flowers and some iron. There’s so much fruit it’s almost candied, but it’s certainly not over-ripe. Then something salty and exotic, like kombu and incense, and then finally damp earth and undergrowth after a couple of hours of air. This feels less ready than #1. It’s darker and more intense, and has real length and tons of juicy blue/black fruit – but completely unforced. Sensational savoury finish.
Dark and smoky on the nose, with powdery flowers and some iron. There’s so much fruit it’s almost candied, but it’s certainly not over-ripe. Then something salty and exotic, like kombu and incense, and then finally damp earth and undergrowth after a couple of hours of air. This feels less ready than #1. It’s darker and more intense, and has real length and tons of juicy blue/black fruit – but completely unforced. Sensational savoury finish.
Red
2015 Vieux Château Certan
92 points
In the heart of the plateau, with pure clay and a little gravel – and facing Hosanna (wine #4). VCC is rare in having a fair amount of Cabernet in the blend (80% Merlot, 19% CF, 1% CS).
Very grown-up wine, dark and brooding. Graceful and cerebral. Not particularly giving at this stage, with graphite, underbrush, liquorice. With time the juicy fruit shows itself, but it remains very precise and tightly-knit. Stealthily long, chocolatey finish. Tannins are nicely shaped. You can feel the alcohol a little (15%).
Very grown-up wine, dark and brooding. Graceful and cerebral. Not particularly giving at this stage, with graphite, underbrush, liquorice. With time the juicy fruit shows itself, but it remains very precise and tightly-knit. Stealthily long, chocolatey finish. Tannins are nicely shaped. You can feel the alcohol a little (15%).
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Red
2015 Château Hosanna
93 points
Tends to be a relatively muscular wine, and can take a while to come round – but when it does, it’s a stereotypical hedonistic Pomerol. 85% Merlot, 15% CF.
Liquorice, smoke, curry leaf, sweet chocolate, flowers and extremely ripe fruit on the nose. Dark and sweet, like a plum jam, then much more bitter on the extremely persistent finish. Quite sweet and modern, although there’s no obtrusive oak and the intensity of the fruit is exquisite in its own way.
Liquorice, smoke, curry leaf, sweet chocolate, flowers and extremely ripe fruit on the nose. Dark and sweet, like a plum jam, then much more bitter on the extremely persistent finish. Quite sweet and modern, although there’s no obtrusive oak and the intensity of the fruit is exquisite in its own way.
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Red
1998 Château La Fleur-Pétrus
94 points
A real mix of terroir here, although nowadays the wine has a stricter selection and there’s less of the sandy terroir used. 90% Merlot, 10% CF.
Still quite dark in colour – only a little bricking around the rim. Such a distinguished wine, giving the sense of old libraries and leather chairs on the nose, which is also mushroomy and earthy, moving into meaty and then (with even more air) towards flowers and incense. Not quite as exciting on the palate as on the nose – good acidity, still noticeably tannic, could maybe do with a little more time and would definitely benefit from some food. Joint group WOTN
Still quite dark in colour – only a little bricking around the rim. Such a distinguished wine, giving the sense of old libraries and leather chairs on the nose, which is also mushroomy and earthy, moving into meaty and then (with even more air) towards flowers and incense. Not quite as exciting on the palate as on the nose – good acidity, still noticeably tannic, could maybe do with a little more time and would definitely benefit from some food. Joint group WOTN
Red
1998 Château L'Eglise-Clinet
96 points
Right by the church, on the plateau.
So deep. Nose of truffle and something intensely aromatic – patchouli? On the palate there’s more truffle and lots of dark fruit, and the tannins are still present. So juicy and so savoury at the same time – it’s lip-smacking and for me outperformed the La Fleur-Petrus tonight. Effortless class. Joint group (and my outright) WOTN
So deep. Nose of truffle and something intensely aromatic – patchouli? On the palate there’s more truffle and lots of dark fruit, and the tannins are still present. So juicy and so savoury at the same time – it’s lip-smacking and for me outperformed the La Fleur-Petrus tonight. Effortless class. Joint group (and my outright) WOTN
Closing
Wow - great session. The 1998s are quite something.