Howell Mountain Dreamin'
Tasted September 30, 2021 by msuwine with 83 views
Introduction
The essence of Howell Mountain can be hard to define (welcome to the world of talking about alcohol, often while drinking it!), but to me it involves a few things: bright but ripe red fruit, grainy and coarse tannins, and a wild and spicy mouthfeel that make me think of pine needles, iterations of cherry, and hiking and smelling the Golden State at elevation (“California is calling,” as Arnold used to say). So, yeah, this is an appellation to think different: there is not the fullness and generosity of the valley floor, nor is there the cool pepperiness that comes with the more southern mountain appellations (here’s looking at you, Veeder). No, Howell is generous but rustic all at once - baked herbs, or something - not the wine you serve to someone at the beginning of their wine journey, but one you wait on until they are looking for something new, something wild.
I decided to compare three wines from this appellation, beginning with the pioneer Randy Dunn and extending to two more modern (and much more pricy) winemakers, Chris Carpenter (Lokoya) and Brad Grimes (Abreu). The result? These are tremendous wines (showing typicity!), each with a similar cherry color, medium body, spicy red fruit, rustic aromas, and grainy tannins. To me, the difference was intensity and complexity, and the Abreu ran away from the pack, with a depth that was beguiling. Decant all of these at least three hours, but here's the breakdown:
Flight 1 (3 notes)
A little more dark in color and full in body, the Abreu offers the most enticing aromas of them all, with notes of blueberry, anise, thyme, and espresso. Perhaps benefiting from being a blend, the flavors are similarly encompassing, with notes of black cherry, peppercorn, milk chocolate, and bay leaf, with a precise but layered finish. Blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Cab Franc, 10% Petit Verdot, and 9% Merlot. 14.5% alcohol. 96-97 for now, with nothing but good things ahead.
Closing
These wines are more similar than different, but there is no question that the Abreu is the best. Pick your sports analogy, but tasting these wines is like watching a trio of players that have different approaches to the game: the Dunn stays with the tried and true, consistent and authentic (read: Steve Kerr, during his time with the Bulls); the Lokoya reaches for something better - but not altogether different (read: Scottie Pippen). The Abreu is some kind of vinous equivalent of Michael Jordan, with Brad Grimes walking in and shooting from distance - i.e., he connects; he scores; he transcends. I guess I shouldn't be surprised anymore by Abreu, but pleased - and impressed, and oh so happy - I most definitely am.