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Donatsch Unique Pinot Noir Complete Vertical
Dolder Grand, Zurich
Tasted April 3, 2022 by sirpat00 with 182 views
Introduction
This was a highly educative vertical highlighting the amazing aging potential of Donatsch’s Unique Pinot Noire. My main conclusions were 1/ these wines reach their peak after 10-15 years only. 2/ 2005 came in on top and can easily be counted among the best Swiss Pinots I’ve had. 3/ Close runner-ups were 2008, 2015, 2019 and 2018 Privée.
Introductory remarks by Stephan Reinhardt and Martin Donatsch: Lots of limestone in the soil which is ideal for Pinot Noir, especially in view of climate change. The lower vineyards have already become too warm and Donatsch is hence replanting the vines where the iconic Spiger was grown with Completer. Bündner Herrschaft as a region is climatically favorable thanks to long vegetation periods and typically dry harvests.
The idea behind the Unique Pinot Noir was to produce it in only good vintages. But in the end 2002 was the only vintage where they thought about really producing it over many nights.
Their philosophy is that the magic really happens in the vineyard. If you get the perfect grape there‘s not much that needs to be done in the cellar. Have tried various barrels, but key difference between vintages is the vintage, not the wine-making.
Flight 1 (21 notes)
Red
2000 Donatsch Pinot Noir Unique
93 points
Tasted at the Matter of Taste Zurich Complete Donatsch Unique Pinot Noir Vertical (2000-2019, all from Magnum) Masterclass. This was the inaugural vintage. A difficult season with rain during the harvest and only 4 barrels (1,200 bottles) were produced.
Tasting note:
Nicely aged profile showing foliage and dried leaves, red fruit and layers of smoke and iron-like minerality permeating the bouquet. Amazing intensity and incredible presence in the glass. Nice and fresh acidity. Texture is maybe a bit on the light side.
Tasting note:
Nicely aged profile showing foliage and dried leaves, red fruit and layers of smoke and iron-like minerality permeating the bouquet. Amazing intensity and incredible presence in the glass. Nice and fresh acidity. Texture is maybe a bit on the light side.
Red
2001 Donatsch Pinot Noir Unique
92 points
Tasted at the Matter of Taste Zurich Complete Donatsch Unique Pinot Noir Vertical (2000-2019, all from Magnum) Masterclass. Commenting on the 2001 vintage, Martin Donatsch pointed out that in its youth this was full of harsh tannins, but was pleased with how fresh and young this was today.
Tasting note:
Pretty concentrated fruit, but in a cool style, showing red cherry and sour cherry. Faint mineral notes, black tea and earth. The palate was fresh but pretty light in terms of aroma intensity.
Tasting note:
Pretty concentrated fruit, but in a cool style, showing red cherry and sour cherry. Faint mineral notes, black tea and earth. The palate was fresh but pretty light in terms of aroma intensity.
Red
2002 Donatsch Pinot Noir Unique
80 points
Tasted at the Matter of Taste Zurich Complete Donatsch Unique Pinot Noir Vertical (2000-2019, all from Magnum) Masterclass. Unfortunately mostly beef juice left here. According to Martin Donatsch, this was another difficult year, maybe the most difficult one so far. Interestingly, this was Stephan Reinhardt’s favorite wine in the line-up when tasted with Coravin two days prior. This spent about 30mins int the glass before the tasting started and seems to have collapsed in that short period of time.
Red
2003 Donatsch Pinot Noir Unique
94 points
Tasted at the Matter of Taste Zurich Complete Donatsch Unique Pinot Noir Vertical (2000-2019, all from Magnum) Masterclass. Martin Donatsch pointed out that this was a hot and dry vintage. He felt that acidity was missing on, however.
Tasting note:
A very pure, hedonistic wine showing sweet red berry and rhubarb, a fine smokey layer and mineral notes. The palate was settled, but still felt young. Soft texture and I felt there was sufficient acidity, actually. This is an incredibly appealing wine, presenting itself with a carefree lightness. In a great spot right now with quite a few years of life left.
Tasting note:
A very pure, hedonistic wine showing sweet red berry and rhubarb, a fine smokey layer and mineral notes. The palate was settled, but still felt young. Soft texture and I felt there was sufficient acidity, actually. This is an incredibly appealing wine, presenting itself with a carefree lightness. In a great spot right now with quite a few years of life left.
Red
2004 Donatsch Pinot Noir Unique
94 points
Tasted at the Matter of Taste Zurich Complete Donatsch Unique Pinot Noir Vertical (2000-2019, all from Magnum) Masterclass. A cool vintage that got off to a challenging start. But you couldn’t tell from the glass as the wine - quite to the contrary – had a pleasant warmth to it. Ripe red berry fruit, even slightly baked which provides for a sweet touch. A bit of earth, a tad of sweet spice and herbal seasoning. A fresh, dense and concentrated palate with a firm structure. Perfectly integrated, ripe tannin. Felt a bit heavier and more dense than the 2003.
Red
2005 Donatsch Pinot Noir Unique
96 points
Tasted at the Matter of Taste Zurich Complete Donatsch Unique Pinot Noir Vertical (2000-2019, all from Magnum) Masterclass. Amazing, off-the charts nose with intense, rather dark fruit profile, a thrilling array of coffee notes and a bit of chocolate and mineral notes. Finessed and elegant with fantastic detail. The palate is juicy with fresh acidity, a nice leathery aftertaste and good length. The nose would warrant 97, palate was great but not outstanding. For me (and quite a few around me) the winner of this vertical.
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Red
2006 Donatsch Pinot Noir Unique
94 points
Tasted at the Matter of Taste Zurich Complete Donatsch Unique Pinot Noir Vertical (2000-2019, all from Magnum) Masterclass. A nice and fresh, puristic fruit profile but with a sweet angle to it. Additional accents of herbs, minerals and roasted coffee beans. Fresh, light but nonetheless structured and refined palate. For me this was a mix of 2003 and 2005.
Red
2007 Donatsch Pinot Noir Unique
91 points
Tasted at the Matter of Taste Zurich Complete Donatsch Unique Pinot Noir Vertical (2000-2019, all from Magnum) Masterclass. Martin Donatsch pointed out this was a difficult and cold year yielding a less concentrated wine.
Tasting note:
A more fleshy, meaty bouquet than other vintages. Pretty ripe raspberry fruit juxtaposed by cool minerarlity. Palate felt very young, still lacking balance but on the flipside with there’s plenty of life left.
Tasting note:
A more fleshy, meaty bouquet than other vintages. Pretty ripe raspberry fruit juxtaposed by cool minerarlity. Palate felt very young, still lacking balance but on the flipside with there’s plenty of life left.
Red
2008 Donatsch Pinot Noir Unique
95 points
Tasted at the Matter of Taste Zurich Complete Donatsch Unique Pinot Noir Vertical (2000-2019, all from Magnum) Masterclass. A fine, beautifully detailed nose with the fruit core embedded in notes of dried herbs, roasted coffee beans and, in the distance, some sweeter highlights. Cool and smoky minerality. Fresh palate, firm structure and very youthful. A great wine that will only get better from here I think. At this stage just a whisker below the 2005.
Red
2009 Donatsch Pinot Noir Unique
94 points
Tasted at the Matter of Taste Zurich Complete Donatsch Unique Pinot Noir Vertical (2000-2019, all from Magnum) Masterclass. A layered aroma profile with fresh red berry fruit, partially sweet in style, some spice, mineral layer and even an earthy touch. That said, not as expressive as 2008 or 2005 and came across somewhat closed. Palate with vibrant acidity, but still a bit wild. Give it another few years and it could ascend to the levels of 2005 and 2008.
Red
2010 Donatsch Pinot Noir Unique
92 points
Tasted at the Matter of Taste Zurich Complete Donatsch Unique Pinot Noir Vertical (2000-2019, all from Magnum) Masterclass. Tighter and more compressed than other vintages. Ripe cherry and raspberry with a fresh, almost minty herbal layer. Fresh and concentrated palate, in good harmony but felt a bit Williams-like, much more tannic than neighboring vintages. Best kept locked away for 5+ years I reckon or go for a long decant. However, a 75cl bottle a couple of years ago was much more open for business. Hence this is either closing down a bit or the aging in Magnum is progressing much slower.
Red
2011 Donatsch Pinot Noir Unique
92 points
Tasted at the Matter of Taste Zurich Complete Donatsch Unique Pinot Noir Vertical (2000-2019, all from Magnum) Masterclass. Cool fruit profile, nice array of herbal flavors. The palate has depth and quite a bit of muscle. Martin Donatsch thought this was way too young still and I absolutely agree.
Red
2012 Donatsch Pinot Noir Unique
94 points
Tasted at the Matter of Taste Zurich Complete Donatsch Unique Pinot Noir Vertical (2000-2019, all from Magnum) Masterclass. A dark cherry fruit, unusually concentrated, cool mineral layer, fresh herbs and seasonings. Super fresh and juicy palate, in great balance even if very primary now.
Red
2013 Donatsch Pinot Noir Unique
92 points
Tasted at the Matter of Taste Zurich Complete Donatsch Unique Pinot Noir Vertical (2000-2019, all from Magnum) Masterclass. A vintage that received high praise and acclaim from critics, but is also a “love-and-hate” relationship with the wine for Martin Donatsch.
Tasting note
Interestingly, this felt at the same time a bit closed, but also concentrated and packed with flavors. Slightly dark berry fruit with a cool, meaty layer and a breeze of menthol. Slightly mouthcoating tannin, lots of structure but not yet ready. Didn’t appear open for business, but has come some way over the last 3 years.
Tasting note
Interestingly, this felt at the same time a bit closed, but also concentrated and packed with flavors. Slightly dark berry fruit with a cool, meaty layer and a breeze of menthol. Slightly mouthcoating tannin, lots of structure but not yet ready. Didn’t appear open for business, but has come some way over the last 3 years.
Red
2014 Donatsch Pinot Noir Unique
94 points
Tasted at the Matter of Taste Zurich Complete Donatsch Unique Pinot Noir Vertical (2000-2019, all from Magnum) Masterclass. Amazing roasted coffee bean notes, a layered and on balance darker fruit profile. Mineral notes of ash, earth. Palate is pure juice, albeit exhibiting still pretty mouthcoating tannin. Time will be your friend here.
Red
2015 Donatsch Pinot Noir Unique
95 points
Tasted at the Matter of Taste Zurich Complete Donatsch Unique Pinot Noir Vertical (2000-2019, all from Magnum) Masterclass. Interestingly, Martin Donatsch rated this vintage higher than the highly acclaimed 2013, highlighting a more “classic” expression of Pinot Noire and a fresher palate.
Tasting note
A pure and fresh profile, very much to Martin Donatsch’s point. Amazing seasoning of sweet spices along with a cooler mineral layer and hints of coffee. All of this elevates the fresh sour cherry and red cherry fruit. The palate was stunningly juicy and fresh. The youthful wildness can easily be excused.
Tasting note
A pure and fresh profile, very much to Martin Donatsch’s point. Amazing seasoning of sweet spices along with a cooler mineral layer and hints of coffee. All of this elevates the fresh sour cherry and red cherry fruit. The palate was stunningly juicy and fresh. The youthful wildness can easily be excused.
Red
2016 Donatsch Pinot Noir Unique
93 points
Tasted at the Matter of Taste Zurich Complete Donatsch Unique Pinot Noir Vertical (2000-2019, all from Magnum) Masterclass. Martin Donatsch pointed out that in 2016 they witnessed unusually high levels of pest pressure which resulted in a harvest that took 3 weeks longer and required careful selection of the grapes.
Tasting note
Ripe and expressive with a concentrated fruit and a more herbaceous angel to it than other vintages. There’s also a laid-back coolness to it. Palate is juicy and powerful with plenty of structure.
Tasting note
Ripe and expressive with a concentrated fruit and a more herbaceous angel to it than other vintages. There’s also a laid-back coolness to it. Palate is juicy and powerful with plenty of structure.
Red
2017 Donatsch Pinot Noir Unique
94 points
Tasted at the Matter of Taste Zurich Complete Donatsch Unique Pinot Noir Vertical (2000-2019, all from Magnum) Masterclass. A difficult vintage where they lost many grapes to frost. This showed in a darker character with dried herbs and ripe raspberry fruit, lead and graphite mineral notes as well as hints of coffee. Palate is super fresh with great tension.
Red
2018 Donatsch Pinot Noir Unique
94 points
Tasted at the Matter of Taste Zurich Complete Donatsch Unique Pinot Noir Vertical (2000-2019, all from Magnum) Masterclass. Martin Donatsch explained that they didn‘t prune much in 2018 due to the losses incurred during the 2017 frosts. This was hence the biggest vintage in many years and Martin was happy how they were able to maintain the freshness. In fact, he thought this was one of the best Pinots he ever made.
Tasting note
A lot of depth and concentration, although the fruit was slightly reserved. A nice and fresh fruit in a ripe and sweet profile, sweet spices. A nicely juicy and fresh palate, tannins have a lot of grip. This showed highly promising, but also appeared somewhat restrained and closed. Hence wouldn’t be surprised the scoring to move up one or more notches in the years to come.
Tasting note
A lot of depth and concentration, although the fruit was slightly reserved. A nice and fresh fruit in a ripe and sweet profile, sweet spices. A nicely juicy and fresh palate, tannins have a lot of grip. This showed highly promising, but also appeared somewhat restrained and closed. Hence wouldn’t be surprised the scoring to move up one or more notches in the years to come.
Red
2019 Donatsch Pinot Noir Unique
95 points
Tasted at the Matter of Taste Zurich Complete Donatsch Unique Pinot Noir Vertical (2000-2019, all from Magnum) Masterclass. This wine showed enormous complexity and immense depth. Milk coffee, herbs and a bit of earth, alluring smokiness complement a lively and fresh fruit. The palate is pure heaven with fresh acidity, a creaminess and silkiness to the texture. The palate is super young with plenty of tannin. Will surely need another decade or more to reach the peak, but has the potential to become the new best ever in my view.
Red
2018 Donatsch Pinot Noir Réserve Privée
95 points
Tasted at the Matter of Taste Zurich Complete Donatsch Unique Pinot Noir Vertical (2000-2019, all from Magnum) Masterclass. Comparing this to the regular Unique 2018, this was more dense and even more tightly packed with aromas. Also a more distinctly smokey, earthy and herbal dimension. Fresh yet ripe fruit. This was noticeably a step-up, but not a very big one.