This needed time in the decanter as it grew more elegant with air. Typical aged Burgundy notes of mushroom and soy, fruit was on the darker end of the spectrum. Very silky and sensual for a producer who is not normally associated with finesse.

Thought this was a new-school Burgundy producer along the lines of Berthaut-Gerbet with the purplish hue and light body, but the fruit wasn’t as crunchy. Realised I had this producer’s Croix Rameau from the same vintage before where the oak was really distracting, but luckily that wasn't the case here. Stood out for being the lightest and most red-fruited in the line-up.

Cork showed signs of seepage but read that this was a common issue in 2010 Hudelot-Noëllats so wasn’t that worried. A large dollop of five-spice on the nose and the palate, I loved the purity of red fruit, silky tannins and weightlessness of this. The most archetypal Vosne and an excellent example to show why people fall in love with Burgundies. My WOTN by far.

My contribution. Drinking very well and I do think some 2009s can be broached now as they begin to show glimpses of their potential. Quite structured and more muscular than most of the line-up. In terms of quality I thought this was up there with the Hudelot-Noellat but it was a matter of stylistic preference as there was quite an even split between the two wines. Has room for improvement to develop greater depth.

A beautiful floral, dark and spicy nose. Old-school style with integrated oak so wasn’t difficult to guess the producer after having so many Laurent wines opened for me before by a generous friend. The high acidity that led to a not altogether pleasant shrillness made me think 1996, but when it was revealed as a 2004 it made sense since Vosne was less afflicted by pyrazines.

Didn’t have a chance to guess this but it was quite heavy-handed on the oak so the producer made sense. Showed more correctly than the last time I had this, quite rustic and traditional (not in a good way). Lacked elegance and was a little too dense and dark for me. Rather ponderous wine.

Traditional in a good way - a little earthiness but with clean and pure red fruit. Not as dense as I expected from this producer. Really like 2017s for their approachability and elegance, don't think it will hit the heights of the better bottles in the line-up but it is offering a lot of pleasure today.