Along the Ruwer. Steep SE-facing vineyard on classic blue slate. A monopole of Maximin Grunhaus. 7.5%.

Bright, floral nose, with gooseberry and grassy greenness. Nice feel in the mouth – fresh, playful. Well-balanced, perfect ripeness. Long, mealy finish. Good vintage typicity, very moreish. Really lovely

Haag wines are subtle and elegant. In the middle Mosel, SE-facing. More blue slate. 8.5%.

A brighter nose than #1, less fully-formed (more sponti). More tropical, some rose and banana - pretty big. Generous style even though it has less RS than wine #1 (or any of the others tonight). Thick mid-palate, with blackcurrant leaf. Saline, bitter Campari-esque finish and a mineral grip. Punchy and sophisticated!

Again from the Middle Mosel, but SW-facing. Again blue slate, 7.5%.

Nose seems unformed, if bright. Lacking in charm at this stage. Herbal savour, and some flowers coming through with air. Edgy and aggressive, and a short finish – not integrated yet.

SW-facing site on the Mosel, again on blue slate. 8%.

Powerful wine! Lots of concentration from 100yo vines. Quite different – more savour and more honey. Aromatic, slightly lactic nose, with some green vegetation and a tropical undertone. Quite full in the mouth, tropical at first, then moving into lime and clementine and a creamy midpalate. Marmitey finish. Needs time for the sweetness and acidity to marry up fully.

SW-facing. Blue slate. 8.5%

Sensational soft, rounded nose; really enamouring, relatively mature, with some rose. Thick lemon/lime scent and flavour. Lots of mineral drive. Really yummy – juicy citrus fruit, lemon sherbert. Really fills and coats the mouth. Little flecks of zippy acidity pep things up. Some cream cheese and chive savour towards the finish...!

Most of their holdings are up in the hills rather than along the river. S-facing, high-altitude, again blue slate but including iron and quartzite (which promotes spiciness). 7.5%

Reductive, stinky nose at first, but there’s certainly charm there: soft white flowers, nutty and with pear, mandarin orange and anise. The palate is spikier and spicier, and complex. Mouthwatering balance of acidity and sweetness – lipsmacking and moreish. Really delicious.

These wines have got lighter in style with Cornelius taking over the winemaking. SE-facing, not that steep, grey slate with clay. 9% (as riper grapes than the Mosel wines tonight).

Quite rich and punchy compared to the other wines tonight. Still has the rapier-sharp juicy, lemony acidity, but the clay and the latitude make the wine a bit bigger. Rich, deep florality, rather than delicate white flowers. Finish slightly too sweet but I feel this will integrate.

They are arguably the best estate in the Rheingau, which is a lot flatter than the Mosel. S/SW-facing. Iron-rich loess and marl. 10%.

Richer, headier and more exotic on the nose. Powdery. There’s weight and bitterness but also lots of acidity and citrus – it’s big but in balance. That said, I preferred the Mosel wines from this session.