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Terroir-istes International - France, Burgundy, Domaine Leflaive

Rodwell House

Tasted September 2, 2013 by rikipedia with 72 views

Introduction

A deep dive into Domaine Leflaive Chardonnay across their range and quality levels.

Flight 1 - Bourgogne Blanc from 3 vintages (3 notes)

White
2006 Domaine Leflaive Bourgogne Blanc France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc
88 points
Mid to deep yellow the aromas show a fine mineral, wet stone and chalk with some tropical fruits (breakfast punch).
Pronounced on entry there is a fatness to the mid-palate with armfuls of white peach flesh cut with a mineral-edged acidity. Broad and rich, this feels like a warmer year and lacks the poise and definition of a better site. Slightly oily texture, the flavours are oatmeal, Bircher muesli, lime and oyster shell. More generic with a medium finish.
White
2009 Domaine Leflaive Bourgogne Blanc France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc
87 points
A wonderfully effusive wine with aniseed, fennel frond, tarragon and wet stones.
More linear example with racy acidity being more tightly knit than broad but lacks some depth and feels again more generic and 1-dimensional. A pleasant oatmeal texture with star anise and some light toast, whilst the wine is quite fruity with stone fruits and minerals and showing that leesy character. Medium length - seems to bat above a Bourgogne Blanc and more a village wine.
White
2010 Domaine Leflaive Bourgogne Blanc France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc
89 points
This is a fabulous mineral-driven wine with floral notes, apple blossom and youthful nuances.
Intense, with a splendid concentration of fruits on the broader than-expected mid-palate that leads to a long fleshy finish. Chalky flavours mingle with juicy yellow stone fruits and fine herbs and are underscored with vibrant acidity. A relatively rich and generous wine, but I would have liked a little more definition.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 2 - Clavoillon from 4 vintages (4 notes)

White
2000 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
88 points
Closed nose initially, then mineral, tarragon, some peach and apricot start to rise. There is a hint of butterscotch, suggesting some development.
The entry is a mouth-cleansing, almost hard acidity that slightly jars, yet the mid-palate is quite expressive with rich, ripe fruits. Although there seems to be some early evolution, the wine works to an extent but lacks a little shine and polish. Possibly slightly compromised.
White
2007 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
flawed
Mid yellow, the nose shows some oxidative characters with sotolon, fungi despite a touch of salty seaweed.
Racy acidity with a beer/hoppy character suggests not all is well. Some premox (ATA) on this bottle. This is the second time this bottle has been served flawed int he last 3 months! Not good.
White
2009 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
89 points
Mid-yellow colour, the aromas are clean and fresh, displaying mineral, chalk, lemon zest, laundered clothes, and Alpine meadow/yellow spring flowers.
A youthful entry with racy acidity and richness in the mid-palate with ripe fruit flavours of white peach and lemon coupled with mineral, chalk and dry stones. Concentrated and flowing along the palate, the wine lacks a dynamic edge and depth of a better year despite having a long, zesty finish. A member of the group attributed this lacks of dynamism to 'gout de lumière' in the wine or 'taste of light' as some picked up a vegetal or wet wool character.
White
2010 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
94 points
Light to yellow in colour, the initial nose is reticent on this youthful wine. As it is coaxed open, there are floral notes with mineral, lemon zest and some oak spices.
A delicate entry, medium-bodied, filled with juicy fruits that flow along on a bed of racy, mineral-edged acidity. Fabulously tight with purity and poise, the mid-palate is mineral, seaweed, salted lemons and spice-infused white peaches underscored by a creamy oatmeal texture.
With layers of complexity, the wine has bite, depth and classy and finishes super long with a grippy, pithy rub.

Flight 3 - Two top vineyards: One a Premier Cru and the other a Grand Cru (2 notes)

White
2009 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
95 points
Light to mid-yellow, the nose shows sea salt, smoke, ozone, and chipped rocks.
The entry is rich, deep and gorgeously intense. From here, the bead of racy acidity runs through the veins of the wine, giving poise, energy and lift. Elements of smoked lemon, mineral, and crushed stones meet orange rind, white plum and chalk. The mineral takes over toward the elongated finish as a rockfall of stones smash together! Stunning!
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2009 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
98 points
Initially closed, the door slowly opens to reveal wet chalk, oyster shells, mineral, citrus and dried earth.
The entry is mesmerizing as the wine shows poise and delineation whilst having a sublime depth of flavour that gives it a multidimensional feel. The mineral and chalk work with the fine racy acidity to provide a lattice-work frame whilst the core is fleshed out with white stone fruits, lime zest and tarragon. There is power, a certain generosity, and extraordinary concentration whilst a layer of gentle floral notes lifts the wine, making it feel effortless as it glides along the palate. Complex, my note possibly doesn't do justice in explaining the wine, but this was outstanding! A top producer from a top vintage!

Closing

A fabulous tasting that yielded only the one spoilt wine suffering premix. I say only one because having tasted/drunk Leflaive many times it is concerning that so many of their top bottles have premox!

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