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Magnificent Montrachet

Hong Kong

Tasted January 6, 2023 by El_Dougo with 91 views

Introduction

Tutored tasting put on by AWSEC of Hong Kong. Tasting notes under guidance of very experienced instructor. Very excellent portfolio of wines to ring in the new year!

Flight 1 - Magnificent Montrachet! (5 notes)

White
2017 Bouchard Père et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet Domaine France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
94 points
Chevalier-Montrachet is highest altitude slope (260-300m) of the SE-facing Montrachet communes, resulting in a cool micro-climate and elegant, delicate wines. 7.59 hectares of varied soils including limestone, marl, and stones. Composed of three Linux-dits: Chevalier-Montrachet, Les Demoiselles and Le Cailleret.

Domaine Bouchard is one of the largest land owners of Chevalier-Montrachet with 2.3 hectares. History dated back to 1731. Based in Beaune. Now is the 9th generation, currently owns 130 hectares in total including 74 Premier Cru vineyards and 12 Grand Cru vineyards. Owned by Champagne Henriot and subsequently merged with Artémis Domaines.

Grapes harvested by hand, manual sorting, 2 phases of pressing with breaks in between! 12-13 months on oak, 15% new.

Pale to medium in glass. Nose bursting of blossom, tropical banana, and mango. Butter and later evolved to citrus. Later still evolved to take on toast. So much going on here, although it did seem to run out of energy a bit after 2 hrs. That said, it could have kept evolving just couldn’t keep it in the glass long enough to find out.

Palate dry, high acidity (tho not as high as Chablis) attributed to altitude, tight med body. Supper elegant! Plenty of aging left as little if any tertiary have developed yet.

One of the leading contenders for WOTN, although the nose seemed to fade by voting time.
White
2017 Lucien Le Moine Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
93 points
Les Criots lies at the southernmost part of Montrachet Grands Crus, downhill (the lowest altitude among the 5 Grands Crus). At 1.57 Ha. It is the smallest among the 5 Grands Crus, but among the $ Grands Crus. Relatively delicate and precise style. Chalk soil.

Lucien Le Moine is a unique negociant specializing in 1er/GC. Name means “enlightened monk,” having to do with owner’s experience working for monastery.

Wine med gold in glass. No fining, racking or filtration. Controlled oxidation evident in color and nose, attributed to skin contact. Brief decant recommended.

Profound nose upon awakening: Eucalyptus, dried fruit, toast, cedar, orange peel, sandal wood and nutmeg. Very buttery. Decant helped to smooth out the flor aromas. Palate high acidity (this despite lower altitude). High alc thanks to warmer part of slope, resulting in richer, larger body. Super long finish: hazelnut, walnut. Would go well with aged cheese.
White
2014 Paul Pernot et ses Fils Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
92 points
Domaine Paul Pernot founded in 1959 and based in Puligny-Montrachet. Currently owns 22 hectares of vineyard (14 hectares in Puligny-Montrachet making for one of the largest landlords). Large part of production sold to the négociants. Produces wines ranged from Bourgogne to Grand Cru levels. Took years to rebuild after WWII destroyed much of the vines.

Wine med-deep lemon in glass. Nose toasty, floral, herbal, nutty. Grapefruit and green mango. With each quick decant (simply pouring from one glass to another), the nose would burst with nutmeg, honeysuckle, almonds and stone fruit only to dissipate…

Palate high acid, med+ body with a rich mouth-coating texture. Long finish. This may have been the least stand out wine of the night but only because of the stiff competition.
White
2014 Domaine Jean Chartron Bâtard-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
95 points
Lies at the downhill of (Le) Montrachet Grand Cru. The largest one among the 5 Grands Crus, shared by Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet. Relatively flat vineyards with clay-limestone soils making for one of the fullest-bodied style. Chardonnay with power.

Domaine Jean Chartron founded in 1859 and Based in Puligny-Montrachet. Currently owns 14.5 hectares of vineyard (mostly from Puligny-Montrachet). Now is the 5th generation. Produces wines ranged from Bourgogne to Grand Cru levels.

100% barrel ferment. 40% new oak. Matured on fine lees for 18 months.

Med lemon in glas. Nose perfumed with sweet vanilla, dried fruit characteristics, subtle pineapple and peach. Very creamy and buttery but with a minerality present as well.

Palate bright acidity, dried apple flavors. 14% alc totally balanced. Long, nutty finish that actually builds, leaving me wanting more with each sip. This wine is really quite elegant despite the clay soil that commonly lends itself to powerful wines. This and the Lucien Le Moine were my favorites of the night.
White
2020 Marquis de Laguiche (Joseph Drouhin) Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
95 points
Composed of two vineyards: Montrachet and Le Montrachet, which lies at the mid-slope of the 5 Grands Crus. Vineyards shared by Puligny-Montrachet (Montrachet) and Chassagne-Montrachet (Le Montrachet).

Owned originally by the marquis since 1390 and carefully managed by Douhin using biodynamic techniques. Unique soil of brown and red earth, marl, clay, limestone and pebbles.

Wine 15-18 months in 25% new oak.

Med lemon in glass. Took quite a while to open and was certainly on the upside when we finished the glass. Nose took on elements of eucalyptus from soil, minty with almonds. Ripe tropical fruit owning to hot summer vintage. A “textural richness” including pineapple, peach, exotic fruit.

High acidity on the palate with a long, fruity finish. This is a very young wine - frankly too young now. I would wait before opening as there is indeed a lot going on here but not yet integrated. It will likely be incredible.
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