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Champagne Bookclub (served blind)--Paul

Bricco Cucina in Laguna Niguel

Tasted June 29, 2023 by Frank Murray III with 133 views

Introduction

All wines served blind. Pairs by producer, one bottle more QPR of the range and the other higher on the shelf.

Flight 1 - David Leclapart (the L'Artiste is not really a QPR, per se) (2 notes)

White - Sparkling
2013 David Leclapart Champagne Premier Cru L'Artiste Blanc de Blancs Pas Dosé Trépail France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
Served blind. 100% Chardonnay with no dosage, and certified biodynamic. I also think this cuvee is done in stainless. Orange citrus with a zesty tone. Lightly bruised apple. Finishes with lime and some austerity. Reminds me of some recent Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus (the 2015).
2 people found this helpful Comment
White - Sparkling
2013 David Leclapart Champagne Premier Cru L'Apôtre Blanc de Blancs Pas Dosé France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
Served blind, next to the same vintage of DL L'Artiste. I much preferred this L'Apotre. 100% Chardonnay with no dosage, and certified biodynamic, done in wood. Apple, rye, citrus pith and a savory finish. It shows more body than the L'Artiste. Clean lemon finish. With air, and as the wine warmed up from the chill, retasted at the end of dinner and the slatey profile emerged, along with a gorgeous polish. My WOTN of the 8 we had blind.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 2 - Bereche (2 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Bérêche et Fils Champagne Brut Réserve France, Champagne
Served blind, alongside the Bereche vintage Cramant, and that wine at 3-4X the price doesn't suit me as well as this basic Brut Reserve. Disgorged December 2022, with 6 grams of dosage, a mix of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meuiner. Touch of peachy color, just a tinge to tell me it's there. Spicy, red fruit jam and stone fruit flesh. Spicy core, and enough spine to exhibit a delicious and lively profile. Haven't had this in a while and I really enjoyed it.
5 people found this helpful Comment
White - Sparkling
2017 Bérêche et Fils Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Cramant France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Served blind, paired with the NV Bereche Brut Reserve. Disgorged July 2022, with 3 grams of dosage. Lemon zest candy, toast and fennel, plus some light caramel. The wine seemed round to me, good but not indicative of something that I think is over $150 US. Didn't have the complexity I was expecting. From this side by side, and for the significant price delta, give me the NV BR again for sure.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 3 - Marguet (2 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Marguet Champagne Grand Cru Shaman 18 France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Served blind, paired alongside the 2011 Marguet Sapience. When the Shaman hit the glass, I had kind of a gut feeling that we might be with Shaman. January 2022 disgorgement, no dosage. 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay. Just a touch of color (assume skin contact as I do not believe there is any still vin rouge added). Light herb (has the Marguet barrrique signature), red apple, lime that is zesty yet approachable. Good balance, feels complete and again affirming for me of why I like consistently Shaman.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White - Sparkling
2011 Marguet Sapience France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
Served blind. July 2021 disgorgement, so about 10 years on the lees. 25% each of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, 50% Chard (the composition coming from wines provided by Laval, Lahaye, and Leclapart). Have tasted the 2009 and 2012, both wines have been excellent. First time with 2011, and I kinda knew this was in the bag. The bottle shape is a give away, and considering the pairing (the theme was same producer, with one bottle QPR and the other top of the house), and knowing we had Shaman in the QPR slot against it, was a pretty easy guess. I called 2011, as this version of Sapience didn't have the power or concentration of the 2009 nor 2012. Instead, polished, with yellow fruit, tangy with some red fruit and the Marguet herb profile.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 4 - Paul Bara (2 notes)

White - Sparkling
2012 Paul Bara Champagne Grand Cru Comtesse Marie de France France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Served blind. Disgorged April 2022. 100% Pinot Noir with 8 grams of dosage and I think about 9 years on the lees. My buddy loves this wine and he has served it before to us. I like it but I just don't connect with how he experiences it. Lime and citrus, with some density. This was wine #7 on the night and I may have under-served my tasting of the wine, instead finding more connection to the wine it was paired against, which was the Bara Bouzy Brut Reserve. I preferred that wine over the more expensive Comtesse.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White - Sparkling
N.V. Paul Bara Champagne Grand Cru Brut Réserve France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Served blind. Paired with the more expensive 2012 Bara Comtesse and in this flight, like that of the Bereche flight we did, I preferred the less expensive wine of the blind pairing. 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay with 7 grams of dosage and 6 years on the lees. Some lemon-lime yet it maintains good balance. It shows some nice power, too.
3 people found this helpful Comment
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