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Benvenuto Brunello London
Lindley Hall, London
Tasted November 21, 2023 by Joshvoulters with 187 views
Introduction
A great opportunity to taste the unreleased '19s from bottle in a very comprehensive horizontal.
It's clearly a very strong vintage: overall they're structured wines with great fruit concentration and the ability to age. I certainly didn't detect any pulpy or overripe examples, nor green or lightweight wines. Maybe there's a bit of hardness to some of the tannins, and they may lack that magical delineation and complexity of the '16s, but they're not far off.
I suppose it's par for the course now, but the vast majority of these bottles weigh in at around 14.5 or 15% - absolutely not apparent on the palate but still, I don't love it.
Flight 1 - Quite a lot of Brunello (30 notes)
Red
2019 Argiano Brunello di Montalcino
89 points
Some perfumed cherry depth, black tea, warming oak spice and eucalyptus. Depth to the cherry fruit, orange zest and a wave of fine tannins. Good bones but rather foursquare now.
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Red
2019 Argiano Brunello di Montalcino Vigna del Suolo
91 points
More closed than the normale but more complex. Toasted warmth, baking spices, lovely French oak character. A tenderness and purity to the fruit. Raspberry, cherry and an unusual but compelling chlorine/ ozone freshness. Compact and ripe on the palate.
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Red
2019 Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino
93 points
Spicy, rich, very very drinkable. Structure, complexity and lots of concentration all in balance with saturated red fruit that carries oak warmth and spice. Rounded tannins which leave some chew on the palate. On the approachable side - delicious.
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Red
2019 Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino La Casaccia
93 points
A step up in seriousness and oak prominence from the normale - right now that slightly masks the true character of sweet and tender, concentrated sunny red cherry fruit which is truly lovely. Once it finds balance it'll be wonderful
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Red
2019 Capanna Brunello di Montalcino
88 points
Ripe, almost candied sweetness. Strawberry and a hint of eucalyptus with a tarry depth. Quite sweet on the palate without great depth or complexity.
Red
2019 Caprili Brunello di Montalcino
92 points
Woody and complex depth on the nose: coffee grounds, oregano, baked earth notes ride a wave of red cherry and strawberry fruit. Pure and concentrated on the palate, lots of tannins enveloped by excellent fruit weight.
Red
2019 Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Montosoli
95 points
Heady fruit, three-dimensional and complex with wonderful depth and a sense of restrained power. Dark red cherry, strawberry, tea leaves, bitumen and a tiny hint of animal brettiness with adds another welcome layer. Against that rich fruit it retains clarity - a ferrous sharpness and edge - and coherent oak toast. Follows through consistently on the palate. This is special.
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Red
2019 Tenuta Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino
90 points
Deep, spiced and dark toned nose. Earthy and quite closed with prominent oak spice. Saturated dark cherry aroma, brighter and more angular on the palate with raspberry and orange zest. Not especially long or complex.
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Red
2019 Tenuta Corte Pavone Brunello di Montalcino
93 points
Fruity, rich, juicy and drinkable with the bones to age. Ripe strawberry and a hint of eucalyptus - sunny and almost sweet. Silky on the palate, concentrated fruit with lovely juicy acidity and pleasant oak character. Drinkable medium-bodied style, very coherent and tasty.
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Red
2019 Tenuta Corte Pavone Brunello di Montalcino Campo Marzio
91 points
Darker toned and more serious than the normale and I'm not sure it's better for it. Still fruit-led with a welcoming sweetness, that fruit encased with notes of tar, black tea, vanilla. Structured but very well managed tannins: compact with good fruit weight and lovely acidity. In a way it feels nearly ready to drink.
Red
2019 Fattoria dei Barbi Brunello di Montalcino
88 points
Not that compelling: a sense of restraint and leanness. A slightly confected cherry and strawberry nose with some darker earthy tones and a hint of sweat. The depth isn't quite there. Palate has good concentration but not much direction or complexity, quite rough tannins
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Red
2019 Giodo Brunello di Montalcino
92 points
Distinctive: first thought is a quality New World Pinot: purity to the purple and red fruit, angular and transparent with a sweetness and delicacy. High toned with some vanilla sweetness. The palate has depth, drive and brightness. Very interesting.
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Red
2019 Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Brunello di Montalcino
94 points
Real depth to this: dark fruit which retains some tartness and freshness, earth, orange, balsamic notes. Sings - in a baritone - on the nose. Oak is beautifully done but needs time to settle. Excellent concentration to the cherry fruited palate, lots of fine tannins, fantastic acidity profile. Il Pog does it again.
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Red
2019 La Fornace Brunello di Montalcino
88 points
A sense of development already - coffee and tarry notes, lots of oak. Dark cherry fruit and a hint of iron. Palate is slightly subdued, pinched and drying.
Red
2019 Fattoria La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino
90 points
Spiced cherry, lots of oak which is nearly overwhelming the lovely fruit beneath. There's depth and sweetness to the rich cherry fruit, lovely acidity but the wood tannins are drying and just a bit too much.
Red
2019 Fattoria La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino La Pieve
93 points
The oak is dialled back here compared with the normale (or the fruit stands up to it better) and the beautifully concentrated cherry, floral notes, pomegranate and eucalyptus just sing. Inviting and delicious, the fine tannins are carried by lovely fruit character on the palate. Great acidity. Long.
Red
2019 Máté - Podere il Falconaio Brunello di Montalcino
93 points
Hints of maturity, quite transparent with lovely sweet red berry fruit, morello cherry and strawberry. A real purity and lift alongside some earthier, baked terracotta tones. Subtle oak and medium bodied on the palate, refined tannins and lovely transparent depth. In character it reminds me of a really good '18 which is no bad thing.
Red
2019 Máté - Podere il Falconaio Brunello di Montalcino Veltha
92 points
Darker-toned than the normale but retaining the sense of levity, transparency and balance. A sweet cottony aroma of fresh laundry, dark cherry, blackberry. Medium-bodied with smooth tannins and bright acidity. A lovely style.
Red
2019 Azienda Agricola Guido Padeletti Brunello di Montalcino
91 points
Angularity and a sense of delineation to this which makes for an inviting nose. Bright, ferrous notes play against dark cherry. It's clean and precise. Lots of oak that really only makes itself known on the palate and it's a touch pinched and drying.
Red
2019 Patrizia Cencioni Brunello di Montalcino
92 points
Slightly reductive, a sweetly-fruited nose emerges with time. A slightly natty character (nowhere near the Colleoni style though) which gives energy and drive, plus a sense of vibrancy. Bright, concentrated and delicious fruit on the palate. Fiery tannins and sharp acidity - this won't be broachable for some time - but it could evolve beautifully.
Red
2019 Patrizia Cencioni Brunello di Montalcino Ofelio
92 points
More traditional (less natty) than the normale: saturated balmy cherry, strawberry and lots of oak. There's a tenderness and clarity to the nose. Loads of fine, ripe tannins - needs time but the fruit will carry it as far as it needs to go.
Red
2019 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino
87 points
A ripe damson character to the fruit, violets, tarry and balsamic notes alongside some sweet ripeness. A thickness on the palate with a pastille flavour - maybe a little claggy. Fiery tannins and massive acidity. Atypical in style, but for my money not compelling enough to get away with it.
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Red
2019 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino I Poggi
88 points
Earthy with eucalyptus notes, sweet red cherry pastille, balmy richness, quite compact. Clenched on the palate: fine, brawny tannins come in a wave with sharp acidity. Dries out on the finish.
Red
2019 Podere Salicutti Brunello di Montalcino
93 points
Just a note on the labelling for this producer: the normale (this one) has Piaggione on the bottom of the label BUT the fruit comes from Piaggione and Teatro vineyards. The single vineyard Piaggione bottling is in fact different, and has Piaggione written slightly more prominently. Extremely confusing. This is why we love Italians I suppose.
Forgetting the labelling disaster, what's inside the bottle is special. Quite angular and alive: some reduction and a touch of VA, and all the better for it. Has a clarity and leanness that really works: balmy and sweet strawberry fruit, rose petals, high toned and aromatic. Medium bodied and juicy. The oak is subtle and adds a great layer of complexity. A lovely lighter style
Forgetting the labelling disaster, what's inside the bottle is special. Quite angular and alive: some reduction and a touch of VA, and all the better for it. Has a clarity and leanness that really works: balmy and sweet strawberry fruit, rose petals, high toned and aromatic. Medium bodied and juicy. The oak is subtle and adds a great layer of complexity. A lovely lighter style
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Red
2019 Sesti (Castello di Argiano) Brunello di Montalcino
90 points
Deep with a savoury edge, a coarseness to the wood. Darker purple and black cherry fruit with a lot of depth and saturation. Lovely rounded concentration on the palate- chewy and maybe it feels slightly manipulated. Fine but very present tannins. Oak needs time.
Red
2019 Talenti Brunello di Montalcino
87 points
Quite extracted, very oaky, compact and concentrated purple fruit and spice. Solid, hunkered-down on the palate. Not that interesting.
Red
2019 Talenti Brunello di Montalcino Piero
92 points
Slightly reduced, clenched but powerful with red and dark cherry, lots of tasty oak, concentrated on the nose and palate. Really good depth but not so complex. Fiery tannins and sharp acidity. Needs time.
Red
2019 Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino
91 points
A tender, spiced nose of sweet red fruit, nutmeg and dried flowers. High toned and concentrated palate without significant depth. Fine, ripe but massive tannins - delicious oak character on the finish. A tough drying.
Red
2019 Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino
89 points
I wanted to like this - because I love Andrea and his wines when they're good - more than I actually did. A subdued nose: roast herbs, macerated dark cherry. Hunkered down on the nose and palate. Great concentration but rustic and uneven: grainy tannins, sharp acidity. It'll come into balance I'm sure but lacks wow factor.
Red
2019 Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino Poggio Doria
90 points
A sense of refinement but not particularly characterful. Strawberry, balsamic notes, bitumen. Clenched and compact. The tannins are overwhelming, sharp acidity. Difficult to know how this develops.
Closing
Canalicchio di Sopra, Il Poggione and Salicutti turned out some really special wines - and I'm looking forward to sampling more producers as they come to market.