Wow -- way better than I remember it being before; I think time has really let this settle. More put-together, with a brilliant citrus chardonnay tang, but without any funkiness too. This is better than the 2006 Comtes de Champagne because it doesn't have as much funkiness -- the purity of the chardonnay is on full display here. Really like where this is right now, but there's certainly more upside.

From a bottle with two years of bottle age. I liked this way more than the previous one I had which felt green and thin to me. This has gotten far more weight and the meunier mushroom and red fruit show very prominently. If anything this reminds me a bit of the Eyrie, but with bubbles. Nice breadth on the palate; perhaps the little bit of time has helped this fill out.

This needs a lot of air to really get going. It's not reductive, nor is it particularly oxidative. But there is salinity, and a bit of peachiness to it. Very nicely rich on the palate, especially with air, the best analogue I can think of here is something like a Friuli white. There's heft, but there's also enough acidity. At first I thought this was a wine that I'd have a glass of; by the end of the night, this is something I could see myself opening at home.

Obviously the crown jewel of the Forey lineup. This was no slouch and lived up to the very high expectations. Very spice-forward on the nose, and the mix of red and black fruit that counterbalance that is ripe, but not overbearingly so. On the palate, you definitely get more oak influence, and that oak use has always been the sticking point with me and Forey. But here, it works, because the fruit is so opulent, and the Vosne spice so distinctively bold. A splendid bottle of wine in a very good spot right now.

Brilliant Lafarge, firing on all cylinders and yet archetypal with that Lafarge structure. The nose is fruit-forward, and shows beautiful Volnay perfume. There's a clean rusticity behind it, and certainly a follow-through on the palate. Tannic and structural yes, but so plush and generous with its fruit at the same time. Plenty of further aging potential here, but unlike the previous bottle I had of this, tonight's bottle was certainly ready to go and quite enjoyable already.