Small glass. Very big and powerful, this is still on the bitter side for my preference, but lots to enjoy here.

Small glass. I have enjoyed this Champagne in the past, but found tonight's bottle to be too austere and tart, nearly hurting my teeth. Still very impressive depth.

From magnum. Nutty apple butter with good richness and depth. slightly simple finish when first poured, this expanded as it warmed up and got more air, while always showcasing 2006 vintage ripeness.

Directly from Vega, thanks Pedro! Black cherry and plum, hauntingly rich and mature with woodsy spice and braised meat. Ultra elegant from the start, this put on weight with more time in glass. Brilliant wine.

Fully mature black cherry and plum, very balanced and spiced, just lacking the great depth of my previous bottle a few months ago. Slightly drying finish, but still wonderful.

Bright red and black cherry throughout, wonderfully fresh, just maybe a trace of volatile acidity. Bright and rich with a engaging sweetness on its long-ish finish.

75/79/81 flight. Charming and so complete, still wonderfully fresh. Just clearly less depth than the 1981 in this same flight.

75/79/81 flight. Similar to the 1975, maybe more depth, but less seamless balance. I truly appreciated the richness here.

75/79/81 flight, this wine was the rockstar. So much fresh and dried black cherry and plum with braised meat and absolutely wonderful depth. So seamless and elegant. This got bigger and longer with more time in glass.

Corked. Odd to note that both bottles from a two bottle lot purchased from Zachys in 2016 were both corked.

90/91/94 flight with an Especial bonus. Red and black cherry, such pure fruit with elegant structure. So tasty now with further upside.

90/91/94 flight with an Especial bonus. This will be the best wine of this flight one day in the distant future. So much power and intensity, but backward and nearly brooding. Otherwise, decant for 1/2 day. Easily 95-96+ point potential.

90/91/94 flight with this Especial bonus, which comes from the 94/96/00 vintages. Easily the most accessible and enjoyable of the four wines in this flight. Still firm, but less meaty. Completely delightful and seamless, like the older vintages of Unico from the previous flight. An expanding and exciting finish, this also got bigger with more time in glass.

In 02/04/05/08 flight of infanticide. So much here, even if not as enticing as either 2004 or 2008, while very backward. Very dense with even better length.

In 02/04/05/08 flight of infanticide. Certainly the most accessible of the flight (the only one I would consider accessible) with gobs of black cherry, plum, and roasted beef ribs with a savory spice rub. Long and elegant, this is also still firm in the middle, but so composed and engaging.

In 02/04/05/08 flight of infanticide. Most like the 2002 in this flight, another big and bold wine that is close to brooding. Give this another decade+ in the cellar, although three decades would be even better.

In 02/04/05/08 flight of infanticide. Firm and dense that manages to give a sense of great balance even while clearly backward, if not still brooding. This might turn out even better than the 2004, but will take much more time.

Finished with pre-release bottles from 2013 and 2014. Red and black cherry and plum seemingly in a more accessible style, even with classic Único energy and structure. This will drink well from as early as 2030.

Finished with pre-release bottles from 2013 and 2014. This was more back to form with a burly, brooding, meaty character, coming across as such a powerhouse that goes on and on and on. Excellent concentration. Give this until 2034? 2044?