Uncorked DK does 2006 Burgundy - 18 wines including Vogue, Rousseau, Liger-Belair, Ponsot
Karlebo Kro
Tasted March 27, 2009 by gorm with 1,394 views
Introduction
This Friday all regular members of Uncorked DK was assembled to sample a new vintage of Burgundy as is our tradition. This time 2006 Burgundy. I hosted this tasting at Karlebo Kro, where they did a marvelous job in providing us with ideal surroundings and great food as usual.
All wines were decanted for 2-3 hours and served blind. For the first 5 flights I knew of the wines in the flight, but not their relative position in the flight. For the last flights, I knew of the wines, but neither position in flight or across flights. A great way to blind yourself.
We were excited as many of us love burgs and we had our expectations raised for the vintage. We didn't dare to hope for an encore of the 2005 tasting last year, but somewhat close would be close enough. Well, read on to learn of our experiences this night.
The ratings below in bold are mine. The ratings preceded by "U" are our group average.
Flight 1 - White 1er Cru (2 notes)
Interesting "fight of the Boillots"...
White
2006 J.M. Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Light yellow. A bit of toasted oak on the nose together with licorice, herbal notes, chardinnay fruit, lillies. Nice fruity yet elegant wine with good balance and gunpowder and more herbal notes in the aftertaste. Also has a decent level of minerality. Does Jean-Marcs wines seem to become more elegant these days? (U92,3)
White
2006 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Light yellow. At first a bit shy on the nose and showing plenty of acid and caramel/oak in the mouth. Then it comes around opening up with first spicy notes and then a slim minerality. Looong aftertaste with peppery and toasty oak. After 10 minutes in the glass it really comes around and shows great class. (U93,7)
Flight 2 - White Grand Cru and a joker (2 notes)
The Leflaive was generously brought by Peter G.
White
2006 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Slightly darker yellow. Nose with fat butter, oak, licorice and peach. Nice fatness and accompanying complexity. Long aftertaste of english licorice and coffee. Stood in the shadow of the Kongsgaard, but were a great white. (U94,3)
White
2006 Kongsgaard Chardonnay The Judge
USA, California, Napa Valley
Same slightly darker yellow. Very sweet and intense nose with banana licquer, oak and vanilla. Very fat and intense with a very long toasted aftertaste. Very impressive as it maintains a lot of nerve and keeps developing in the glass. Nobody spotted it as a joker in this Burgundy setting. (U95,9 - WOTN!)
Flight 3 - Red 1er Cru (3 notes)
Red
2006 Domaine Jean Grivot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Reignots
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Very light red - like raspberry juice. Sweet nose with highpitched red berries and many dried herbal notes as well as a slight medicinal touch. Nice acidity and good complexity, but its a bit hollow and not as long as I would have expected. The Grivot signature is recognizable and it was interesting to taste this rarity (only about 1200 bottles produced). (U91,9)
Flight 4 - Red Grand Cru 1 (2 notes)
This was intended as a "warm-up" Grand Cru flight, but it turned out to be one of the best flights of the night...
Red
2006 Jean-Jacques Confuron Romanée St. Vivant
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
Dark red. Dark berries, loads of dirt/earth, spicyness. Very nice aftertaste. Dense, juicy and sweet, yet very light. Even shows a bit of sweet tobacco notes intermixed with the soy and earth. One of the nights good performances and positive surprises. On the other hand Confuron mostly delivers me thinks. (U94,4)
Red
2006 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de Tart Grand Cru
Same color. Very dense sweet nose with meat, dark mature cherries and spicebox. In the mouth there is good density, sweetness and juicyness and delicious notes of smoked bacon. Clos de Tart always delivers, but the development in pricing is rapidly decreasing its QPR standing. (U94,4)
Flight 5 - Champagne intermezzo (1 note)
What could be more appropriate than a pure pinot noir cuvee?
White - Sparkling
N.V. Jacques Selosse Champagne Cuvée Contraste
France, Champagne
(Degorged february 2007) Dark golden yellow. Nose is just a firework of roasted rye bread! In the mouth there is massive mousse, fat fruit, more rye bread, oranges and sherry notes. The Selosse signature is recognizable and even though it is very fat and a bit exotic, it has a great freshness which makes it balance. (U95,4 - 2nd best WOTN)
Flight 6 - Red Grand Cru 2 (2 notes)
The Clos Vougeot was generously brought by Peter S. Collectively this heat was somewhat disappointing.
Red
2005 Domaine Château De La Tour Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Dark red. Very delicious nose with earth, leather and darker berries together with some outstanding sweet strawberry/raspberry notes. Nice balance and an elegant wine, but it comes across as a bit closed, but with some potential. It wasn't spotted as a 2005 joker, probably because it was somewhat closed. (U93,0)
Red
2006 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair La Romanée
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Romanée Grand Cru
A bit lighter red. Very light notes of berries, roasted butter and brown sugar on the nose. In the mouth it is intense, elegant and complex giving of dried flowers, black tea and loads of oaky caramel which seems to hide the fruit at this stage. When I opened and sniffed this I found it to be one of the few wines that had a 2005 quality nose, but when we came around to it it was gone. Giving the price tag and ratings it was disappointing even though it had some good qualities. I am bit concerned if the fruit in this is too fragile to bear oak like this. (U94,0)
Flight 7 - Red Grand Cru 3 (3 notes)
Another slightly disappointing heat, saved by the Bonnes Mares.
Red
2006 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
Light red with a darker core. Very delicious nose of sour cherries and hints of dried tobacco. Good depth. In the mouth this appears very fresh and primary with good length. It was very nice, but another slight disappointment - I would have expected this to be one of the highlights of the night. Even though it's great pinot juice, it's but a shadow of the great 2005. (U94,0)
Red
2006 Lucien Le Moine Bonnes Mares
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
Same color as the Musigny. Great nose with deep deep sweet cherries and dairy products, with a lovely undercurrent of dried spices. Very pure, "transparent" pinot with a bit (just enough) oaky caramel and a long spicy aftertaste. Great energy and once again draws our attention to Lucien le Moine, who does a great job in "beating" the combettants in this heat. (U94,4)
Red
2006 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Richebourg
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru
Dark red. A somewhat shy nose with sour dark berries and some tobacco together with a bit of spicy soy. Dark and grumbling it hints at complexity and has decent length, but is lacking somewhat in concentration and expressivity, which is clear compared to the other wines in this heat. Maybe closed, but seems uninspired. Disappointing. (U93,1)
Flight 8 - Red Grand Cru 4 (2 notes)
Back on track. Had I planned the flights in advance I would have placed these together in the final flight. That it turned out that way was pure coincidence.
Red
2006 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Relatively light red. Strawberry and raspberry fruit with champagne like acidity and sherry like oxidation intermixed with secondary notes of soil and earth. Very firm and acidic, but shows some potential. (U93,3)
Red
2006 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
Dark red. Very nice nose of sweet berries, hints of farm vegetables, and some sweet oak. Intense, long and very elegant. By far one of the nights best performances. Rousseau delivers. (U94,6 - Best red of the night)
Flight 9 - (Very) Sweet Sticky (1 note)
A little followup on the Sine Qua Non event last month.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2001 Sine Qua Non Chardonnay Mr. K The Noble Man
USA, California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
Very dark golden yellow. Very sweet, fat and concentrated, yet balanced by good acidity. Notes of glue, nailpolish remover, english orange marmelade, quince and honey intermingle. Really delicious. Some even guessed for older vintages of D'Yquem. (U95,0)
Closing
As you can see it was a night of great wines and quite a few disappointments. Especially the 3 single most expensive wines (Vogue Musigny, Liger-Belair Romanee, Meo-Camuzet Richebourg) simply did not deliver. Quite a few of the wines priced just below however did, at least somewhat. Overall I found the experience to be in line with my expectation for a pure, racy, yet firm and classic vintage, but I was disappointed that at least a few of the wines didn't stand more out. The best red wines were the wines by Rousseau, Confuron, Clos de Tart and Lucien le Moine which to me seems consistent with previous experiences. This is were I will place my bets.
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