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Australia Wine Trip

Swan Valley

Tasted September 20, 2009 - September 21, 2009 by Alex H with 1,335 views

Introduction

A hotbed for sweet wines and still growing many sweet varietals like PX, muscats and port varietals. They deserve their reputation for sweets and showcase the best that aussie sweet wines can be.

Flight 1 - Sandalford (5 notes)

Famous for their sweet wines and well deserved at that. Quite commercial though and I was saddened to learn that they are ripping out the low yielding old PX vines that go into their famed sandalera due to commercial profitability reasons. From speaking to the sales lady at the cellar door, I think they are veering towards more commercialization and mass market. It really is a pity. I hope they don't lose the soul of their wines pursuing $$$.

White
2008 Sandalford Element Late Harvest Australia, Western Australia, Greater Perth, Swan Valley
77 points
Kero , lifted alc on the nose. Sweet yet zesty orange peels, some pineapples. Very clinical.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2008 Sandalford Sémillon Boytris Semillon Australia, Western Australia, Greater Perth, Swan Valley
81 points
Luscious golden sultanas, sweet ripe raisins with a good dose of botrytis.
Red
2005 Sandalford Shiraz Margaret River Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River
77 points
Lifted christmas spices. Standard slightly spicy fruits.
Red - Fortified
N.V. Sandalford Founders Reserve Liqueur Port Australia, Western Australia, Greater Perth, Swan Valley
81 points
Burnt coffee caramel , luscious christmas sweet spices of aniseed and nutmeg. Lots of unctuous raisins, dried figs and lovely rich fruits.
Red - Sweet/Dessert
N.V. Sandalford Sandalera Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River
90 points
Lovely lovely nose. Tarry rich spiced dark chocolate. Smoky but more muted nose than i last remembered. This is a heavenly sundae of rich toffee, caramel. Rich, regal and indulgent. This is wow!

Flight 2 - Lancaster (8 notes)

Touted as having the oldest vines in Swan or even the region, I find the vines quite ill-maintained and the whole experience quite touristy and commerical with the sales person pushing quite hard to sell their wines. As humourous as he might be, I think sacarstic comments aimed at non buying customers are uncalled for. That said, my impressions of the wines were written before the sacarstic comment when I said we weren't buying any bottles. I find the wines mostly mediocre but generally palatable.

White - Sparkling
N.V. Lancaster Wines Australia, Western Australia, Greater Perth, Swan Valley
79 points
Flower blosswoms in spring . Fresh spritzy white peaches , nectarines and pears.
White
2008 Lancaster Wines Chenin Blanc Australia, Western Australia, Greater Perth, Swan Valley
79 points
Green apples and kinda grass lifted. A fresh style of chenin almost like a sauvignon blanc.
White
2008 Lancaster Wines 3 Vines Australia, Western Australia, Greater Perth, Swan Valley
73 points
Made from chardonnay , viognier and verdelho. This is sweet ripe pears on the nose but very bland and diluted on the palate.
Rosé
2008 Lancaster Wines Rosé Australia, Western Australia, Greater Perth, Swan Valley
74 points
Light unripe strawberries. Standard rose but missing the party sweet fun and has some bitterness at the finish.
Red
2008 Lancaster Wines Cabernet Sauvignon 9 Rows Australia, Western Australia, Greater Perth, Swan Valley
75 points
Smoky, oakeds with lots of bitter black tea . Just some blackberries fruit.
Red
2007 Lancaster Wines Shiraz Old Vines Australia, Western Australia, Greater Perth, Swan Valley
74 points
Smoky and oaked with bitter tea tannins. A bit weak on the palate though.
White
2009 Lancaster Wines Chenin Blanc Australia, Western Australia, Greater Perth, Swan Valley
80 points
Ripe white fruits with honeysuckle. Quite a sweet quaffable drink for summer.
Red - Sweet/Dessert
N.V. Lancaster Wines Sticky Shiraz Australia, Western Australia, Greater Perth, Swan Valley
77 points
Rich toffee, sweet raisins but very standardish.

Flight 3 - Talijancich (2 notes)

Visited this winery just because the name sounded unique. Thank God! I came here! The solera system dessert wines were to die for with a very fair price tagged to them. Up there to compete with the best of Spain's sherries or Portugal's vintage ports, they really have darn good sweet wines! The vines are pretty old as well. I tasted the other dry whites and reds with not much impressions except that they were quite rustic and old time aussie wines.

White - Fortified
1965 Talijancich Pedro Ximénez Australia, Western Australia, Greater Perth, Swan Valley
90 points
Amazing wine with expected aged spicy dried fruits aromas. The aromatics are just fabulous and layered with some interesting smoky aged oak as well. An interplay of dry and sweet palate with the dryness showing the age but sweetness of recent vintage top ups from the solera system.Good length. Definitely more complex than the muscat but I suspect hedonists would prefer the muscat. Both are fabulous though.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1961 Talijancich Muscat Swan Valley Australia, Western Australia, Greater Perth, Swan Valley
89 points
A hedonist's dream dessert finish. Aromatics of flowery almost fresh fruity aromatics but complemented by lots of aged raisiny characteristics. Soothing luscious and unctuous on the palate with lots of dreamy raisiny goodness. Finishes like a top quality Jarrah honey.

Flight 4 - Little River (9 notes)

My best find yet! The only vineyard making truly classical styled wines but unsuprising given the winemaker is a french Count with family estates in Bordeaux. His wife, the Countess Jan de Tastes, gives a perfect rendition of respect of terroir, classical wine making and best practices of non-irrigation as well as lamenting over the Pine Tree farm they were going to plant next door, which were going to force them to irrigate as the Pine trees will use up too much of the ground water. She is as passionate about wines as any French would be but I did sense an air of snobbery over her comments about her neighbours' wines or even margaret river wines in general. However, she was the only person I spoke to that expounded on the topic of types of soils, irrigation, cropping, deleafing etc. Wonderful hour I had spent there as she explained her wines to us. A must visit!!! and next time I must try their famed duck confit!

White
2007 Little River Chardonnay Unwooded Australia, Western Australia, Greater Perth, Swan Valley
76 points
Nice mushroomy nose and also hazelnuts. Very classical as compared to all other wines tasted on this aussie trip. However, I find it a little too dry with almost an unpleasant bitter pith and bitter orange seed flavour on the palate.
White
2007 Little River Viognier-Marsanne Australia, Western Australia, Greater Perth, Swan Valley
81 points
A blend of viognier and marsanne. This (according to Madame or Countess Jan de Tastes) was a first in Swan back in the old days. Interesting wine to be grown here and despite the sunshine in a bottle that made australia what it is, this white does not exhibit the same aussie white generic fruity taste one might expect. This is actually quite old world with lots of spices on the nose of anise, fennel seed and some florals.
The palate is made up of spicy minerality with glimpses of the aussie sunshine from some apricot and orange peel nuances. Interesting.
White - Off-dry
2007 Little River Moscato Vin Doux Australia, Western Australia, Greater Perth, Swan Valley
80 points
Semi-sweet with nice florals. Elegant , lovely albeit simple crisp summer wine.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2007 Little River Muscat Noble classic Australia, Western Australia, Greater Perth, Swan Valley
84 points
Fresh orange blossoms backed by nice florals and some fresh apricots. Well-balanced with nice clean acidity supporting the honey-suckled palate. This is just so elegant compared to the sweet styles more normally associated with the region.
White - Fortified
N.V. Little River Moscato White Port Australia, Western Australia, Greater Perth, Swan Valley
80 points
Similar aromatics as the noble classic but with more oomph from the brandy added to make this white port. On the palate, this is more sourish cherries and orange blossoms.
Red
2000 Little River Shiraz Viognier Australia, Western Australia, Greater Perth, Swan Valley
78 points
Aged and re-released. I found the wine a little tired on the palate with some soy sauce reductive notes showing on the palate. Still I get some garrigue spice aromas and classical approach with the fruits. Bitter tannins. Soft wine.This needed to be drunk maybe a year ago?
Red
2004 Little River Cabernet Merlot Australia, Western Australia, Greater Perth, Swan Valley
84 points
Another remarkably classical effort with hints of spices on supple but rich right bank plummish - currant fruits. Has a good dose of that aussie sunshine in a bottle but done in a clean elegant bright style. A good wine.
White - Sparkling
N.V. Little River Brut de Brut Australia, Western Australia, Greater Perth, Swan Valley
76 points
Traditional methods. This is quite dry with hazelnuts and white stone fruits. Simple but is on par or slightly better than some of the generic brut champagnes out there. Finishes clean with beer froth.
Red
2003 Little River Shiraz Australia, Western Australia, Greater Perth, Swan Valley
86 points
By far, my best find of the trip! The only truly real classical styled effort from all the vineyards I visited. This might not be the most stunning (complex) wine I tasted on the trip but I really did enjoy it a lot if not the most. This is full of black licourice, black cow leather, horse manure bordering on cigar box with lots of musky backward aromatics. Very rhone garrigue and barnyardish. Lots of spices on the palate of anise, cloves, nutmeg giving character to the dark black wild cherry fruits. Also got some black rock nuance at the finish. Good length.

Flight 5 - Vino Italia (2 notes)

Another interesting winery that we chanced upon. Very low key and unimpressive winery building with an almost eerie feeling when entering just because it is situated in a deserted corner of Swan. However, was captivated by their vines which were all gnarled up and looked really old. And right I was as the aussie italian born winemaker (in his 80s I think) told us the brief history of how he started. A very typical italian Godfather like figure, he seemed proud of making wines for immediate consumption and to be had with food. The labels were outdated and vintage-less (so that they didnt need to re-print yearly) and the wines could be bought for a dime a bottle. Tasted a few other wines and ports but most didnt have any labelling so couldnt tell what was what. In general, this is also a must visit just for the nostalgia and the old vines. The Grenache is a powerful wine and shows its age like its winemaker. However, most of their wines are really for immediate consumption and came alive only with food.

Red
2009 Vino Italia Grenache Australia, Western Australia, Greater Perth, Swan Valley
81 points
Extremely full bodied and displaying unabashed ripe sunshine fruit in this bottle but somehow the wine is very true and unpretentious. It has no qualms about showings its "sweet" side and is definitely quite "big-boned" on the alc. Hedonistic and simply true. It borders on a razor's edge on being imbalanced.
White
2009 Vino Italia Semillon Trebbiano Australia, Western Australia, Greater Perth, Swan Valley
81 points
Very interesting wine and though it had a sort of reductive note on it, the wine as a package came across as quite a rounded food wine. Lots of honeysuckle and a savory salty nuance. I get overnight pears and apple juice. The acidity is slightly flat and wine sorta fat but with food, this became alive.
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