Raspberries, steel, and earth; more structured and thick than the '04; firewood and smoke; pepper and cherry coffee liquor; creme de cassis and the consistency of fudge.

Tannic but still lighter on its feet and more fascinating than the (fascinating) '01; but then its beautiful sour cherry fruit, copper, and brown sugar become disjointed--showing too much heat, revealing that it would benefit from the three additional years in the cellar.