Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  5/4/2011 (link)

  (SANTENOTS Volnay DEBRAY) UPDATE: 2010 Bordeaux Many of you have asked for my comments on Parker’s 2010 Bordeaux review but I have little to say (for once). I’ve been spouting on about 2010 since last August (while the grapes were heading toward full development) and my opinion on the vintage and buying strategy remain the same: 2010 is a fabulous, modern year that is unique in the annals of Bordeaux but that does not mean you should purchase the top wines....at least, not yet. Despite the great vintage, one I truly admire, I have not decided if Garagiste will participate in the en-premier shenanigans. I completely avoided it last year and will most likely do so again. As I stated several months ago, there’s little reason in the current economic climate to purchase en-premier. Prices for many of the top 2009’s are cheaper on 3rd/4th tranche than they were on 1st tranche and I expect more of the same with 2010. Here is a link to a story I penned in February and it still holds true today: http://www.garagistewine.com/bordeaux-never-dull-vintage Remember, if you skip 2010, the next vintage of the century could be as early as 2011...or 2012...or 2013... ...or was it 2000...or 2005...or 2009... - Jon Rimmerman ******************** 2009 Red Burgundy Dear Friends, Now, let’s move on to something that will actually be gone in a flash – Debray’s top-end 2009 Burgundy – red Burgundy to be precise. We’ve profiled Domaine Debray many times but it’s worth re-stating the fact that they are singular in Burgundy as a source that uses their long-term connections with growers and notable names to bottle some of the top 1er and Grand Cru level wines in all of Burgundy at a fraction of their usual cost. To keep their tariff card so low, the sources must be kept secret but I am privy to the origin of all the wines and the list is a who’s who of Burgundy. As an example, the 2009 Santenots and both Pommards below sell for $50-75+ from their labels of origin – enough said. With that, if you are looking to get a read on the oh-so pleasing, ripe and full-natured style of the 2009 vintage in Burgundy, this gives you a chance at relatively reasonable prices (while I don’t consider $35+ for wine reasonable in any regard, in comparison to what all of the vineyards below typically command, especially from 2009, the value speaks for itself). My only complaint with Debray is quantity – especially the 1er and Grand Cru wines. We have have limited numbers available, which forces me to place all five examples on the same offer (to hopefully diversify the interest level). Keep in mind, I selected the following five examples as the best of the litter. There were an additional 10-12 vineyard selections but these stood out for their grin-inducing melted mineral character, structure and fine expression of 2009 without getting carried away (i.e. they picked at just the right time). In other words, these are 2009’s to cellar and cherish (they are not 2003) - more like 2008 meets 2009 from top-level material at prices we can wholeheartedly support. Here we go - FIRST COME FIRST SERVED up to the stated limits until we run out... 2009 Domaine Debray Volnay “Santenots” 1er - STRICT LIMIT 12/person (this is not the generic Volnay, compare at $50-60+) Tough to find a fault here – layers of extractive fruit that carry the whimsical essence of Volnay but also the masculine presence of Santenots. In a vintage like 2009, Santenots can produce very long-lived wines that act more like Pommard than Volnay and this example does just that. Very deep and rich without any cloying or heavy traits – pure and varietal but also stuffed with the velveteen seduction of 2009. A top bargain in Volnay 1er. 2009 Domaine Debray Pommard “Les Epenots” 1er - STRICT LIMIT 12/person (compare at $50-65+) This has everything the Santenots has with more of a stern character that expresses Epenots with aplomb. Compared to the price of the known label, this is an outright steal of a deal on a rather serious 2009 that will reward the patient (although it opened over 6-10 hours last night to give much enjoyment). 2009 Domaine Debray Pommard “Chaponnière” 1er - STRICT LIMIT 12/person (compare at $60-70+) I tried to choose between the Epenots and the Chaponnière but could not – so we’re offering both. Where the Epenots has a youthful and gruff character I quite like, the Chaponnière has a sultry envelope of fruit that encases the masculine structure of Pommard. So, think of this as the opposite of the Epenots (where the structure wraps the fruit) - with the Chaponnière the fruit wraps the structure. Both are terrific and this is also priced at an eye-opening level for what it is. 2009 Domaine Debray Corton Grand Cru - STRICT LIMIT 6/person (compare at $75-80+ in the US, $60-70 in Europe) Like an iron fist of dense and solid 2009 material – this is a personal favorite and it’s priced well below competitive examples. The wall of Pinot Noir fruit this wine contains is quite impressive but its wonderful balance never descends into overdone or overwrought territory. There’s a reason Grand Cru vineyards are so prized. Will age for years. 2009 Domaine Debray Clos Vougeot Grand Cru - STRICT LIMIT 6/person (compare at $120-140+) Expensive? Yes, but so is 2007 Scarecrow so everything is relative. I opened this 14 hours ago and it still hasn’t budged... This parcel is directly from the winery cellar with impeccable provenance. To order any of the above, simply email Nicki with your desired quantities and she’ll get back to you shortly: nicki@garagistewine.com This parcel is set to depart the cave – it will arrive in the late spring (please check OARS for local pick-up after June 15th). It will ship during the Fall shipping season. Out of state orders will be held for free under ideal storage conditions (56 degrees/70%humidity) until shipping is possible. Locals may pick up at their leisure. For current local pick up and arrival/ship information, please see your OARS link below (at the bottom of this offer) - don’t know how to access your OARS? Simply click the link and see your account. You can also paste the link into your browser. If you are having trouble with your link or your account, please contact: support@garagistewine.com NO SALES TO RETAILERS OR WHOLESALERS Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Burg2201 Burg2202 Burg2203 Burg2204 Burg2205