Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  2/1/2011 (link)

  (BRAZAN I Clivi Tocai) Special Dear Friends, If you ask attendees of any of the recent wine salons in France where one of the finest portfolios was poured, chances are that table was not from France – it was from Italy. When I use the word “special” I do so in context of this winery’s standing in the world order – they are special indeed with indigenous varietals and a heartfelt duty to preserve the heritage of their region. They are not only among a handful of the most important wineries in Friuli but also in all of Italy. We’ve offered the wares from I Clivi several times in the past but their current portfolio is wow-worthy in every respect – so much so that the word “respect” I just typed takes on new significance. With some of the most admired old-vines in northern Italy, I Clivi is perched in Friuli’s golden zone near Slovenia. Their vineyards are stunning to say the least and the family that gently tends them is as gracious and detailed as their resulting wine. No oak of any kind is used on the white wines with maturation in stainless to preserve the freshness. All yeast is indigenous and there is no “winemaking” - they hand-pick the organic grapes and place them into tank – that’s about it. The cellar remains governed by strict organic and BIO principles with a “less is more” attitude. At I Clivi they trust their vineyards and that trust has rewarded them. The winery produces three distinct types of wine and all are worthy of our exploration. The first is a dry rather cutting style of white that emphasizes freshness and citric tones wrapped in old-vine extract (see the first wine below, Friulano Vecchia Vigna), the second is a more unctuous/grand cru representation of Friulian white wine (see second wine below – 2007 Brazan) and the third is a single red wine that wreaks of Pomerol as much as the Friulian clay and limestone it is grown in (see third wine below). I can’t really say enough about how good their present wines are, I’d rather let the expressive liquid in the bottle do the talking. One thing is for sure, I Clivi is set to break out of a classic ascending triangle toward new highs... I urge you to carefully read their website as it captures the spirit of something “special” - there own free will: http://www.clivi.it/home_ita.html For reviews and opinions on their wine (from the last decade or so), please see: http://picasaweb.google.com/iClivi/Press# All three of the wines below are VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED: 2009 I Clivi Friulano Vecchia Vigna (Colli Orientali del Friuli/Tocai) DOC - Like a powder keg of Edmond Vatan meets Huet, this stunning Tocai white wine sparkles on the palate and cuts like a stiletto backed up by Le Haut Lieu-like glycerols and an extractive backbone that never gets out of sorts. This is NOT a heavy, thick amphorae/orange wine like Vodopivic or Gravner – this is vibrant, alive and lightly yellow shellfish-friendly example with fabulous intensity that acts like a BIO/organic tank sample of Le Monts Damnes meets Tocai. Lemon, orchard fruit, stone, sea whiffs, verbena, crushed pink peppercorns, lime, minerals and other delights vie for your palate’s attention while the freshest of acids and cleansing attributes wash away the cares of the day. Basically, this dry white is amazing. For under , it’s extra-amazing and you can forget your previous notions of heavy-handed Friulian wine – this wine shimmers with a vibrancy that will capture your sense of wanderlust. One of the more highly recommended whites of the 2011 campaign and one that nearly every corner of our Email List can appreciate. 2007 I Clivi “Brazan” (Collio Bianco/Tocai) DOC - (this is not the Arzillari, that is around $10) Also made from Tocai, this is I Clivi’s grand cru expression from Collio (along with sister wine, the Galea blanco from Colli Orientali) - it is more in keeping with your notion of Friulian white wine – textured and somewhat extravagant (by I Clivi’s standards), the 2007 Brazan is a thing to behold. It slowly unfolds to reveal cherry blossoms, apples, nutmeg, lemon oil, ginger and various spices coiled within the walls of grand cru-level sap and the most delicate but masculine wall of buffering glycerols. The finish lasts for over a minute – 100% the opposite style of the Vecchia Vigna above but every bit as worthy. We offered the 2003 version of this wine 2-3 years ago but the 2007 is twice the wine. EXTREMELY LIMITED. 2003 I Clivi “Galea Rosso” (Colli Orientali DOC/Merlot) - (this is not the regular Galea, this is a special designate with a red “3” stamp on the label) If Miani is the most famous producer of Merlot in Friuli, then I Clivi is the most admired by the classicists (Miani can be a freak show of extract and melted baking chocolate where I Clivi will settle for Lafleur). If you are drawn by Pomerol’s iconic mix of elegance, terroir and complexity, let me introduce one of the finest bottles of pure old-school Merlot you are likely to come across – the Galea Rosso (Bressan fans pay particular attention here). Maybe 2003 was heavy for the whites but for the reds, it was a unique growing season akin to 1959 in Bordeaux. With the noble disposition of a well-healed gentleman and the old-vine breed (and confident brash) of a 4th generation Ivy League attendee, this wine (produced from vines 50-70 years of age) has so many nooks and crannies that it requires many hours, sniffs and small sips to appreciate them all (just like a top Pomerol). What sets this wine apart form its cousins in Bordeaux is a texture and palate engaging flavor spectrum from the BIO/steep vineyard that acts like a cross between Hermitage and the Right Bank. It is sultry, seductive, compelling and reminiscent of something circa 1970 Trotanoy meets Friuli. Whatever it is, it’s darn shocking indeed. EXTREMELY LIMITED Please give us your maximum number up to 12 x each wine and we will allocate accordingly To order: niki@garagistewine.com This parcel is set to depart from Friuli – it will arrive in March (please check OARS for local pick up after April 1st). It will ship during the Spring shipping season. Out of state orders will be held for free under ideal storage conditions (56 degrees/70%humidity) until shipping is possible. Locals may pick up at their leisure. For current local pick up and arrival/ship information, please see your OARS link below (at the bottom of this offer) - don’t know how to access your OARS? Simply click the link and see your account. You can also paste the link into your browser. If you are having trouble with your link or your account, please contact: support@garagistewine.com NO SALES TO RETAILERS OR WHOLESALERS Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Italy7326 Italy7327 Italy7328 Click here to view the status of your orders in O.A.R.S.