Vinous

• By Stephen Tanzer
  Washington: Various Shades of Hot (Oct 2017), 10/1/2017 (link)

  (Mark Ryan Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Board Track Racer The Chief Washington Red) Subscribe to see review text.

Full Pull

• By Paul Zitarelli
  Full Pull Cab Two Ways, 5/26/2017

  (Board Track Racer (Mark Ryan) The Chief Cabernet Sauvign) Hello friends. It struck me during a recent tasting through the Mark Ryan lineup that the winery has become something of a Cabernet Sauvignon expert over the past few years. Mike MacMorran is doing beautiful work with the variety across a number of different labels and price points; as far as I can tell, they’re bottling at least five separate wines with Cabernet Sauvignon on the label. Today we’re offering two, each representing fine expressions of Cab at their respective price points: During Mike’s tenure with the winery, we’ve seen a subtle shift in the house style. The ethos – powerhouse wines structured for ageing – hasn’t changed, but texturally, there has been a quiet shift towards polished tannins and graceful mouthfeel. The ’15 Chief is a great example. The Board Track Racer label has been a great success for Mark Ryan, combining unused juice from the main label with purchased fruit when required. Two important notes for this 2015. First, this vintage has a high enough proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon (85%, the remainder Malbec and Petit Verdot) that it can be labeled as such. Second, no purchased fruit was required here: the Cabernet is entirely from younger vines at two important vineyard sources for Mark Ryan: Phinny Hill in the Horse Heaven Hills, and Quintessence on Red Mountain. The first thing you notice when this hits the glass is its inky purple-black color, and then soon after, the aromas start wafting out: black plum and violet, black tea leaves and eucalyptus. Unmistakably Cabernet. The palate (14.6% listed alc) is intense, extracted, a total stainer that fans out and saturates from attack to finish. I love the tannin profile here. They’re present in a way that makes you know you’re drinking Cab, but they’re fine-grained, classy, supple. The overall package is charming as can be, just irresistible at a $25 tag.