Burghound

• By Allen Meadows
  Jan-14, Issue #53 (link)

  (NV Leclaire-Gaspard Brut - Grand Réserve Villages White) Subscribe to see review text.

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  4/30/2009 (link)

  (NV LECLAIRE-GASPARD Grande Reserve (2000 stamp)) UPDATE: 2008 Bordeaux A number of you have emailed this morning asking for my opinion on the 2008 Parker Bordeaux reviews - my opinion stays the same as it was in my editorial of a few weeks ago. I predicted the scores would be high and that they would cause a rush to purchase (which has already happened since last night - only Parker has the ability to move an entire market by himself, everyone else is just pretending ) - with that said, I still caution you to exercise restraint. The first thing you need to do is cross-reference the wines you simply can't live without (there's a reason Suckling gave 2008 Montrose 88-91pts, a rating that will stay with the wine, no matter what the Parker review is. While I'm not going to say this is 1982 all over again, where Parker made his name with a revolutionary outlook, it is similar to 1996 where there was varied opinion). If my match is correct, 2008 is the highest rated vintage of Parker's career - think about that for a minute (I could be wrong but I did quick calculations). Even with the highest overall scores Parker has ever bestowed on Bordeaux, only 24-36 wines will see great movement en-premier. Where does that leave the other 500+ Chateau down the line? Out of luck. As is usually the case, the entire world will be chasing the same group of wines, and they are sure to elevate in price (especially the 2008 Pomerols). My point is that, if you can exercise restraint, the glut of other unsold 2008 wine (from very respectable Chateau like Malescot, D'Issan or even something like Lynch Bages) will most likely force the market down. That coupled with the very high level of inventory on 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006 and 2007 wine will almost certainly cause a market correction to ensue and continue through 2010. If 2009 is a marginal vintage, the pressure on the Bordelaise to keep prices low, very low may be so strong that it could cause a near-permanent shift in the market. If 2009 is a great year, better than 2008, it will leave remaining stocks of unsold 2008's without a home as the fervor circa April 29th, 2009 will be long forgotten by April 30th 2010 and I believe the prices will be similar to the 2008s - even if it's a great vintage. The point is, there will be plenty of wine to enjoy, from a number of vintages. While I do have a soft spot for many of the 2008s (due to their cool-toned style) it does not take away from the fact that more chemicals and treatments were used in this vintage than in history. I still urge you to fax your favorite chateau and ask then what was used in the vineyard and in the cellar before you part with your hard-earned money. You have a right to know what you are putting into your body before you purchase any food product. I've also heard reports that Parker has once again "saved the day" for the Bordelaise but I could not disagree more. He's saved the day for 2-3 dozen properties but the remaining 500+ estates will see little if any help (consumers are also more likely to cross reference the second and third tier down from the top, those deemed to have "marginal" Parker barrel scores, which will diminish their appeal even further as most of the world's critics have not been as kind to the vintage - if Parker gave the wine 90-93 or 89-91, chances are a competing critic scored it even lower. For some reason a Parker 95-97 for a wine forces the consumer to overlook an 88-91 from another - in reverse, the wine would die a quick death (if Suckling gave the wine 95-97 but Parker came out with 88-91 the en-premier sales would be 0 - that is how powerful Parker is with Bordeaux). Another factor to keep in mind is the economy - if you are going to trust a merchant with your funds for 2-3 years, you better make sure they have a long history and have deep pockets. While history in no way a guarantee of delivery (or that they will be in business in three years), do your homework and only trust the most tried and true - even if you pay a few dollars more. Amortized over a 5-10 year period while you age the wines, the few extra dollars will mean nothing - that is actually a pretty good rule to live by with all of your wine purchases (we do not have any 2008s for sale but K & L, Wine Club or even Zachy's would appear to be very safe sources). If you do purchase 2008 en-premier, have fun with it and do not get caught up in the negativity. Wine is to enjoy and only you can make the purchasing decisions for yourself. Have a nice weekend everyone! - Jon Rimmerman ************************* Champagne Dear Friends, This special parcel was just confirmed and it's a wine I've enjoyed at least half a dozen times in the past few years. With each experience, I find something additional to admire but I've never been able to secure a well-stored lot until this evening. Leclaire-Gaspard is a name unknown to most US Champagne collectors but that is going to change. The quality at this property is exceedingly high, among the finest of the new cadre of grower-Champagne houses. What makes them slightly different is that they are not young guns or radicals - they are classicists and they've been growing grapes on the hillsides of Avize since the 1800s. They grow Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier but only the Chardonnay is kept in-house for their specific Blanc de Blanc bottlings. The Grand Cru Grande Reserve is their top wine - a Blanc de Blanc that has very high ambitions. There is a new-release version available of Grande Reserve in the US for around $40 (from 2004 and younger stock) but this is a different limited edition of the Grand Cru Grande Reserve, disgorged in 2000 from 1995-1998 stock - nine years of bottle age has been very kind to this cuvee. It has power, finesse and harmony from the ageing with a palate awash in the tell-tale green apple calling card of the house. It always appears that Leclaire uses heavy dosage from the intense and residual style of their wine upon first opening but that is not the case. They pick relatively late (as opposed to early, more the norm in Champagne) and their grapes achieve natural ripeness with terrific acidity that carries over to the mouthfeel. With air, the mousse takes on a very fine and graceful tenor (although still quite robust) and the overall impression is of wonderment that this NV cuvee is such a youthful child. No only does the wine have years left in the tank but it drinks very well even as a still wine (once the bubbles have dissipated). A regal, adult style that sets itself apart and it is priced at the lower end of the spectrum for quality of this ilk (NV or not). For reference, the cork of this lot is stamped "2000" for disgorge identification and the special Mozart "250 year Anniversary" cage adorns the bottle (caged in 1995/1996). VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED (I urge you to look up TN's on Leclaire-Gaspard and their exemplary wines - Burghound or other): NV Leclaire-Gaspard Blanc de Blanc Grand Cru Grande Reserve (disgorged in 2000/Mozart) It will ship at the end of the spring shipping season (weather permitting). Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Champ9420