JamesSuckling.com

• By James Suckling
  7/11/2018 (link)

  (Delas Ventoux, Red, France) Subscribe to see review text.

Full Pull

• By Paul Zitarelli
  Full Pull Ventoux, 3/28/2019

  (Delas Freres Ventoux) Hello friends. Back in April 2013, we sent an offer that became one of our first import-wine phenomena: Charles Bieler’s “Lou Ven Tou.” It was a ten-dollar wine from Ventoux, a Rhone satellite appellation, but it drank like wine from one of its pricier neighbors: Vacqueyras or Gigondas or dare-I-say Chateauneuf. You all bought piles of it, and loved it, but it was a one-and-done wine; we never saw it again. Ever since, whenever we get tasted on a well-priced Ventoux wine, I hold my breath a little and hope for a repeat of that experience six years ago. It hasn’t happened often. In fact, I think we’ve only offered a single other Ventoux wine in the interim. But it happened recently with Delas Freres’ glorious 2017: Wine Advocate: Copyrighted material withheld. Let’s get oriented, since we don’t talk about Ventoux often. Mont Ventoux is located here, due east of Gigondas and CdP, appellations that command considerably higher prices than humble AOC Ventoux. It is also quite mountainous, with ancient Triassic limestone pushing up into the subsoils. Delas’ Ventoux vineyards are found in the foothills of those mountains; one in the commune of Mazan; the other in Goult. We’re basically at the intersection of the Southern Rhone and Provence, which means we’re in Grenache country. And so no surprise: this is 80% Grenache, blended with 20% Syrah (the Syrah portion is all whole-cluster fermented). Also no surprise at this price point: this doesn’t catch a whiff of oak; in this neck of the woods, it’s all concrete and stainless steel, for maximum fruit freshness and impact. This clocks in at 14% listed alc and comes roaring out of the glass with brambly raspberry fruit, hot-rock minerality, and all sorts of appealing spice notes; there’s a savory edge here, somewhere between tomato paste and harissa, that is fabulous; way more complexity than we have any right to demand at this tag. Its texture is also a ringer for its pricier neighbors, with noteworthy palate saturation and fruit impact. This just fans out and coats every nook and cranny with mineral-soaked, tea-leaf-inflected, berry goodness. The winery recommends pairing it with “Provencal stews” – I suspect this Daube Provencale recipe would do the trick.