Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  7/6/2007 (link)

  (Vinademoya Bierzo) Bierzo Dear Friends, I’m running today (as it seems to be the case on Fridays) but this wine could not wait. I’ve been trying to secure this for the last half year and its finally come to fruition. For those of you unfamiliar with Bierzo in the northwest of Spain (it is still a relatively unknown region), it is one of the most exciting areas in Europe that is finally reaching its potential (similar to the Roussillon). Influenced more by the cold Atlantic Ocean than its neighbor to the south, Ribera, these are wines that have the intensity of the rest of Spain but the delicacy of its other neighbor, the Galician wines that hug the Atlantic Coast (an intriguing combination). Mencia is the key varietal - Cabernet Franc to you and I, although the definitive correlation between Mencia and Cabernet Franc is still up for conjecture but locals, when pressed, will tell you it’s the same varietal. Bierzo has a stash of very steep, terraced vineyards that are some of the oldest that exist. It is one of the most beautiful regions of Spain and of Europe. The area floundered in near obscurity for nearly a century due to its somewhat remote location but Bierzo is here to stay and it’s here in a very big way - with everything except the high prices fetched in Ribera. This wine represents what is electric and exciting about Bierzo. It is from the great 2004 vintage (which was better than 2005 in most of Spain and many believe it is better than 2001 or even 1982, 1989 or 1994 - check various vintage charts if you need to) and its expression of Mencia is at a level reserved for much more expensive wines. From an incredible set of vines that are 100-125 years of age, the 2004 Vinademoya will get its due when US critics get a hold of it - it’s just that good and it’s best days are years ahead of it (like the Priorat we sold last week, I believe Wine and Spirits tasted this recently and I’m sure they gave it more than 90pts but I don’t have the review). The wine is so compressed on itself that it acts like a young Bordeaux barrel sample of Cabernet Franc intensity and citrus, pepper and spice. This is like a dark-star of energy, poised to explode as a supernova of Mencia across your palate but it retains a restrained nobility and medium weight 13.0-13.5% character that is hard to explain in a wine of this richness - that is the secret to Bierzo and a quality that would be difficult to duplicate in other regions of Europe except possibly Cote Rotie. If you like to be ahead of the curve and pay a fraction of what this wine will cost once the powers that be elevate it to a different status, here’s your chance... VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED ONE SHIPMENT ONLY at this price, about the same as in Spain: 2004 Bodega Luzdivino “Vinademoya” Bierzo (100+ year old vines) Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Spain2100