Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  3/19/2009 (link)

  (MOMBELTRAMO Malvira Roero) 1999 Barolo? Dear Friends, Looking for single vineyard 1999 Barolo but only want to pay for generic Nebbiolo? Recession Barolo? Whatever you want to call it - try this. Today's offer is representative of how Garagiste works - we go out into the world, find something of quality and/or intrigue at a fair price and pass the savings on to you. Of course, there are a myriad of logistical nightmares, egos, month-long government sanctioned vacations, dock strikes, rail strikes, air strikes, more month long vacations, winemaker lethargy, endless customs holds and other unforeseen circumstances along the way but what's important is the wine...and the fact that it eventually shows up (all under temperature controlled conditions - no matter how delayed it is). At the suggestion of the sommelier (who turned out to be the owner of the winery), I enjoyed the 1999 Mombeltramo Roero at the Malvira restaurant in Piedmont (which is excellent). The wine was 20E on the list and it was from their own estate so the risk was minimal. Let's just say, I can still taste it weeks later. During the evening, I engaged in small talk about the misunderstood quality of Roero and it's ageing capacity - out of nowhere, an 1988 of the same ilk appeared courtesy of the owner (although labeled only as "Roero" - Malvira used to blend the Mombeltramo and Trinita together for one wine) - the 1988 was at peak with the most glorious aged but still fresh Nebbiolo character that fans of Serralunga Barolo would be delighted to have at their gustatory disposal. It was a reaffirmation of how important provenance is - the bottle had never moved since release and it was obvious. I asked if any quantity existed of the 1988 to offer to our customers? I was told emphatically "no" (as is usually the case on initial inquiry) but later "maybe some 1999". When I hear "maybe", I know it's worth perusing. In the current economy, if you don't pound the pavement, nothing is accomplished - that's what I've been doing and this offer is the result: one of the finest deals you will come across on aged Nebbiolo. The Malvira estate lies in a beautiful hamlet in the heart of the Monferrato (Roero), just a stone's throw from some of the most famous vineyards in the Langhe. They produce very high quality Nebbiolo every year, closer in style to Barolo than the more feminine aspect of their neighbor, Barbaresco. There is something calming and authentic about the wines of Malvira that has been lost on so many others in the environs of Alba. I could go on and on about abut the influence of scores, modern technology, Marc de Grazia and others on the traditional flame of the Langhe, but I will let this lovely wine speak for itself. The Mombeltramo is Malvira's finest expression, it is above the Trinita level (in quality and price). While the winery would liken it to more of a Ciabot Mentin Ginestra vs Pajana quality difference (i.e., both are intended to be at a similar level), I would argue it is more of a Monfortino vs. Cascina Francia difference - both are excellent but I don't have to tell you which is preferred. 1999 was one one of the finest vintages of the 1990s (behind 1996 and 1990) and this example is a showcase of the growing season's strength. From a library release that has never moved from the cellar (part of the same parcel I tasted at the restaurant), the provenance and freshness of this wine is unsurpassed. While I harp on provenance insistently, this wine illustrates the importance of traceable lineage to a pointed degree. I remember tasting a bottle of this wine last year in the US (the exact same vintage), bought from a NY retailer. It was sent to the US 5-6 six years ago on release and it was like a different wine. The US bottle was slightly tired but still very good - the bottle I just tasted from Malvira's cellar stock was alive, deep, even penetrating in its expression of Nebbiolo - the first word I wrote on my pad was "serious" the next was "exciting". The fact that it's this price delivered to the US is almost a joke. This cellar-stock parcel has aged in a sumptuous fashion - the wine is long and deep on the palate with fine tannins and a regal coolness that coats the entire palate despite the warm year. It is full of classic, almost masculine Nebbiolo character that leaves brick, tar, salt, tobacco and rosewater freshness in the mouth for minutes. Did I say this was good? VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED as a recession splurge on aged wine. This parcel has never moved form the winery cellar: 1999 Malvira Roero Superiore "Mombeltramo" Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Italy8868