Vinous

• By Antonio Galloni
  The Best of Northern Italy (Oct 2008) (link)

  (Tramin Stoan) Subscribe to see review text.

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  5/14/2008 (link)

  (Tramin STOAN) Limited Dear Friends, Below, you will find a selection of limited items that I do not have enough of to justify a single offer on their own (I’m hoping to dilute interest in each by lumping them together - if I had enough of each, they would be major offers in their own right). You can throw darts with abandon here - all are exceptional in their own way and all three would be terrific additions to any cellar: 2007 Wimmer Czerny Gruner Veltliner “Fumberg” (Austria) 375ml EXTREMELY LIMITED (this is not the Roter-Veltliner, that is more widely available and is less expensive) Here’s a wine that has become very difficult to get from one of Austria’s relatively unknown artisans - and it’s an 2007 - a vintage that many Austrian vintners regard as the finest in the last 20 years for terroir expression. While we love Terry and his Madison, WI roots, there is life beyond the Thiese portfolio and this wine proves that. Some of the finest small Austrian producers remain an enigma in the US market but they are about to have their day inn the sun - Wimmer-Czerny is at the top of the list. Where 2006 was about power and often over-done extract and alcohol, 2007 is about the heavenly aromatics and magical lithe, stony nuance that separates Austrian wine from the pack. Hans Czerny is a wizard with organic and biodynamic viticulture. His parcel of vines in Wagram has been farmed by a member of his family for over 250 years and he adds nothing, takes nothing away and uses no yeasts or other to jump-start fermentation. If the wine ferments, so be it, if not - move on to the next vintage. His 2007 portfolio is one step shy of a masterwork and the Gruner Fumberg is simply shimmering in its bright and brilliant green-tinged reflection of this outstanding vintage and site-place. Cutting and cleansing with gorgeous levels of buffering extract, when the Austrian’s get non-malo dry Gruner right, it can really shine - that’s just what Hans Czerny has done in 2007. A wine I could drink every night but there’s just so little available. 2007 Cantina Termeno Tramin “Stoan” (Alto Adige) 750ml EXTREMELY LIMITED A multi-award winner and critically acclaimed example in the past, this is another wine that is reaching for the stars. The price of this wine has gone through the roof in 2007 but the Stoan has reached its pinnacle in 2007, produced from a similar micro-climate as the Czerny above but higher in elevation and from over the border in Alto Adige. It is a strong vote of confidence for the delicate greatness of 2007 and it’s tactile expression of terroir. If you are trying to figure out what 2007 is all about for white wine in this area of the world, this would be a very good place to start. 1994 Klein aux Vieux Remparts “Muscat” (Alsace) 750ml EXTREMELY LIMITED This is an amazing little experience, pulled directly from the beautiful cellars at Klein. The dry Muscat at this property is legendary among the St. Hippolyte faithful and they hold it back for up to 20 years before release. From a great vintage in Alsace, if you could bathe in crushed mint and evergreen with a round ball of anise covered delight bobbing in the fresh breeze, it would be this wine - one that I’m sure very few of you have had the pleasure of experiencing. It is still young nearly 14 years after bottling (evidence of how important cellar-stock is) but still secondary in its expression. Don’t wait for the Kentucky Derby to experience the vinous equivalent of a mint julep. This is a wine to bring out when you want to give the dinner party guests something unusual and exotic that they will not easily forget. A conversation starter and VERY RARE (only a few cases available). Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Austr3300 Italy7697 Als5330