Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  4/22/2009 (link)

  (MATTHEWS Red Table Wine) Matthews Dear Friends, Cabernet lovers, this is for you. In 2005, Red Mountain produced fruit for the ages - Matt Loso decided the Cabernet Sauvignon was so strong that he would bottle a small amount of his flagship wine (the Columbia Valley Red Wine) with the intent of long-term ageing on par with St. Estephe in a great vintage...little did he know it would be his swansong. That wine has now been released and it is the last vinous treasure he produced at his namesake winery - it is also the last "Red Wine" that will be produced at Matthews Cellars - the winery will continue (without Matt) producing only a Claret, Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc for the foreseeable future. Sometimes referred to as just "Matthews" or the "Red Wine", this is the wine Matt envisioned when he began production in the early 1990s - an example that could challenge the big boys of Napa/Bordeaux and put Washington State on the map for good (all of this was before the fame of the "modern" post-1995 Quilceda Creek and during a time when De Lille was considered the next big thing). There have been many memorable wines from Matt Loso but, in his heart, he knows that the 2005 Matthews is the finest example he's ever produced...and it's his last. This is a very serious wine on all accounts. It is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with parts Merlot, Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. The wine is sourced primarily from Red Mountain (Bel'Villa at 1200 ft in elevation) with Conner-Lee, Stillwater Creek, and Alder Ridge used as well. It is a mighty anvil of a wine that screams refinement while it pummels you with layered and reserved dark fruit that has style and power. Its beastly tannic frame is akin to Oscar Wilde meets Byron - outrageous in composition but perfectly put together like the gentleman poet that it truly is. Broad and muscular with the superb tannins of Red Mountain at its spine, 2005 was one of the greatest vintages in the history of Washington State and Matt Loso took full advantage - sorting every single berry for this wine by hand and coddling the fermentation and vinification - all of his effort was used and it's quite obvious. Here is the official tasting note from the winery: "2005 Matthews Red Wine: "A tightly wound nose begins with ripe cherry, black currant and an earthy espresso. A hint of black tea comes out with a small amount of exposure and an intriguing mixture of eucalyptus and toffee, a structured wine with the polished elegance of earlier Matthews Red Wines. This wine will last an easy 15 years plus." The fact that 2005 Quilceda Creek is selling for $150-250/bottle at retail and this is $45+ speaks volumes. Both are sourced primarily from Red Mountain, both are grand wines and both are produced with extreme attention to detail with the highest of aspirations. In addition, no expense is spared with either wine. While a slightly different style (the Matthews is more 1982 Calon Segur to the Quilceda's 1989 Montrose), the smart money remains with the 2005 Matthews and it should age for just as long as the Quilceda Creek (if not longer). (On a personal note: I'd like to thank Matt Loso for his hospitality and endless energy over the years - while we were never personal friends, my admiration for his work stands tall. His contribution to the still young Washington wine industry has been among the most frenetic, traveling to all corners of the country to promote Washington's place in the hierarchy. The wine industry as a whole is better because of him and his vinous portfolio speaks for itself - it will continue to do so for decades. Thank you Matt - JR) (On a second note, the new winemaker (Aryn Morell) is off to a roaring start - the new owners of Matthews are taking this very seriously and the post-Loso era has some terrific wine in store for you. While they do not have a high-end Cabernet-based wine at present (the 2005 below is the last), I am hopeful they will add one in the future). VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED and sure to be something of a Northwest collectable. This parcel is directly from the cellars at Matthews with perfect provenance: 2005 Matthews Cellars (Columbia Valley Red Wine) Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA WA8999