Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  6/19/2008 (link)

  (Raquillet LES VASEES) Burgundy Dear Friends, I'm a bit ashamed to admit it, but my first experience with Raquillet was in a wine shop in Beaune. I was supposed to pick my friends up at the train station and I was already 20 minutes late. I knew they wanted to dive right in, maybe a quick picnic with wine and local cheese, but they expected Burgundy par excellence after the long trip - and (of most importance to them) they expected me to produce some unknown top wines out of nowhere. I have to say, I was so busy the previous few days that I didn't have a chance to work on their needs - so, I rushed into a wine shop that usually has fair prices and politely shouted in my best country French "Give me the best thing you've got" - how American. When I went to pay, I expected to be slapped with a Grand Cru price-tag but instead the merchant asked for (at the time) the equivalent of 15 Euros. 15 Euros? I said "Give me the best you've got, not the best Bourgogne Rouge you've got". I saw bottles of Roumier, Clos de Tart, Lafon and the best producers in the Cote d'Or on his shelf? His reply was quick and stern: "This is the best I've got". Gulp. It was not until I tasted the wine an hour later with the above mentioned group of friends that it all made sense. In a random occurrence in Beaune, I learned one of the biggest lessons in the wine trade - the best wines in the world are often right in front of you, but they are not going to make themselves known - you need to reach out and grab them. They usually come without any reviews or fanfare and they are often from relatively untested terroirs. This was my introduction to Francois Raquillet and I still don't know how to repay that merchant (I've tried many times and he's even become a friend since - we now trade wines on occasion as he has a penchant for German wine). I've taken up enough space with the story above as this offer should be about Raquillet and his treasure-trove of expressive, mineral and earth slathered Pinot Noir. He has become somewhat of an artisanal hero since my first sip of his Combins that day but I am more than happy to offer any of his wines at any time - especially the 2006s. As most already know, Raquillet's group of 2006s are not only better than his highly rated 2005s, they are like liquid terroir of Pinot Noir. I could drink them every night - they are a reminder of how much I miss Pinot Noir in it's rawest form - in its most sauvage and mineral-laden. The Vasees really stands out in 2006 and this is Burgundy the way it used to be without the hit or miss element that plagued this region for years - Raquillet has harnessed a new style of sauvage and once you taste it, you wonder why this producer's trademark "rusticity" and unmanipulated style isn't the way all Pinot Noir should be. If this fresh and lightly pungent wine is rustic, you can give me everything they have. A pure delight with gorgeous mineral tone. Burgundy this special for under $30? It still exists. This may be strange but to give you an idea of the style, try to read both of the reviews below and combine them - that's the 2006 Les Vasees. Raquillet's 2006 portfolio reminds me a lot of his 2001s (thus the Naugues review) and there is even more fine precision than the 2005 Les Vasees - together, the reviews are close to the style, i.e. more serious mineral underpinning than 2005 and slightly less obvious velvet than the 2001 review suggests: Whatever it is - it's darn memorable, not only for the price but for resuscitating the soul of Pinot Noir, just like my first experience at the wine shop in Beaune. ONE SHIPMENT ONLY at this price - about the same as in France (if you are waiting for the 2006s to show up in the discount bin, that's not going to happen here - Raquillet sells everything he has in Europe and only a small amount comes to the US as it is). VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 2006 Francois Raquillet Mercurey 1er "Les Vasees" Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Burg7420