Vinous

• By Antonio Galloni
  New Releases from Piedmont (Oct 2008) (link)

  (Orlando Abrigo Barbaresco Montersino) Subscribe to see review text.

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  8/18/2009 (link)

  (MONTERSINO Orlando Abrigo BARBARESCO) Barbaresco Dear Friends, Hard work and dedication can bring many rewards and this is a perfect example of turning that effort into the realization of your dreams. I've been watching Orlando Abrigo and their Barbaresco come of age over the past 4-6 years and the 2005's are finally worthy of a major offer. Like the Tarlant Champagne from last week, much of this is due to a new generation and their foresight to take the family estate into territory the older generation could never fathom. Based in Treiso, Giovanni Abrigo (Orlando's son) and his wife (of the Borgogno Barolo family) set out from the get-go to produce wine that would be considered among the very top-tier in all of Barbaresco. When I say top-tier, I mean Giacosa, so the aim was very high. While they are not there yet, in many ways, they've succeeded above what I thought was possible. What was once a stand-pat family estate with top-notch parcels that were being tended poorly is now a flourishing, emerging player at the high end. While I'm not going to compare their vineyards to La Tache (I took enough ribbing for my Tarlant comments), their terroir is undeniably terrific and it is now being harnessed with the gusto of a passionate family that has the consumer close at heart. Both wines below are EXTREMELY LIMITED and both are directly from the source with perfect provenance: 2005 Orlando Abrigo Barbaresco "Montersino" What can I say? Everything came together for Giovanni Abrigo in 2005 and many would argue his Montersino cru was the epicenter. From vines nearly 40 years of age at 1000ft in elevation, this wine teems with floral complexity and a breed that is compelling indeed. While I won't say it is devoid of quercous influence, its presence is charming rather than alarming. This is (like the Tarlant) the type of modern wine that brings together a rich history of tradition and ushers it in to a new era. Unlike so many past examples from the environs of Alba (circa 1990-2000) that were forcibly futuristic in style, this wine is modern but it still sings of its varietal character, sense of place and of itself. A beautiful success with low-moderate alcohol for the region (13.5-14.0%). A new definition of modernity? 2005 Orlando Abrigo Barbaresco "Vigna Rongalio" Rocche Meruzzano As good as the Montersino is in 2005, the Rongalio may be even better. Where the Montersino seduces with feminine energy aligned with muscle-bound strength, the Rongalio makes no qualms about is tannic, masculine, four-square style...but that is not all. The thick tannins are covered with Rongalio's signature "cinnamon, pepper, liquorice and tobacco" while bright red Nebbiolo fruit lingers for a long engagement on the palate. A wine that should age for at least 15-20 years. With both the Montersino and Rongalio open on the table for 6-8 hours, this was the wine I kept returning to over and over. It may not be as complex as the Montersino today, but its layered tannic structure is engaging. This wine also has moderate alcohol for the region (13.5%-14.0%): Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Italy7671 Italy7672