Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  5/11/2009 (link)

  (AGATHE BURSIN Gewurzt Zinnk Grand Cru VT) Dark Star Dear Friends, This wine has been called a "Dark Masterpiece" by a noteworthy palate in France and it is an absolutely accurate descriptor of this gorgeous 2007 Grand Cru Gewurztraminer. From one of the young genius winemakers in France, Agathe started her own Alsatian winery at the tender age of 24 after successful stints in Burgundy (the Cote d'Or and Chablis), Cote Rotie and Alsace. Think about that for a minute? When she started, her entire "domaine" was 2.7 hectares (slightly more than 6.5 acres) - it's still about the same. From Sir Thomas: "Agathe Bursin was born into a family of vintners. In 1939, her great grandfather was killed in an accident and the family joined the cooperative after the war. When Agathe was a child, her grandmother let her smell wines and decide if it was dominated by "flowers" or "fruit". In the kitchen, her grandmother made Agathe close her eyes and guess what was put in her mouth. These childhood experiences have contributed to Agathe's current interest in flavours and fragrances. Agathe is a very smart woman - after her B.S, she earned advanced degrees in viticulture and oenology (BTS); a DiplÖme National d'-nologue; and a DESS (an advanced M.A.) in vititcultural and wine law (DESS en Droit de la vigne et du vin). As an example of her tenacity and foresight, In CÖte Rotie at Clusel Roch, her objective was not to be in awe but to learn how to work in steep vineyards and run a small estate with many parcels - exactly what she would need to do on the hillsides of Alsace. When she was ready to start her winery, she went to a cousin with significant holdings in some of the finest climates in Alsace. He did not want to produce great and noble wines, he preferred to remain in the coop, and was happy that Agathe wanted the hard-to-work vineyards on the steep slopes while he kept the easily mechanized vineyards in the flat - she was more than happy to oblige his desire to work less. While Agathe Bursin is now a "cult" star in France, she continues to work alone in the cellar and in the vineyards - as she has from the first day." Her wines have been described by the press as "the purest and most refined of southern Alsace" and that "from the hillsides of Zinnkoepfle, she extracts true jewels". The 2007 Gewurztraminer Zinnkoepfle VT is certainly the dark masterpiece noted above - it swirls with Szechwan peppercorns, curry, lime, wild flowers, pinpoint brightness and a sublime texture that is never heavy (rather it floats like a leaf wallowing in the breeze). Notes of saffron and even juniper rise from its middle with a finish that is so long, pure and dark (even dangerous?) that the taster eventually succumbs to the power that is present from start to finish. This is one of the top wines of the vintage for what it is. VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED for piercing reflection of vintage, site-place and delicate hand of the vintner (wrapped in an iron first of power. Only 15 cases for the entire US (not kidding): 2007 Agathe Bursin Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Zinnkoepfle Vendanges Tardives 750ml (This wine sells for around half this price in Alsace but it's almost impossible to find more than a bottle or two. The US price is actually even more than this - closer to $65). It will ship in the fall. Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Als5400