Vinous

• By Stephen Tanzer
  January/February 2009, IWC Issue #142 (link)

  (Tikal Jubilo Mendoza) Subscribe to see review text.

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  10/12/2009 (link)

  (TIKAL Jubilo) Cabernet (Malbec) Dear Friends, After my Argentinean editorial a few weeks ago, I received a group of well-intentioned emails from collectors and wine professionals in Buenos Aires (and Mendoza) with commentary on what I had penned. Many of them also included lists of wine to try and/or to offer our customers that didn't fit the typical model. Most of the notes assured me that Argentina has a fair number of terroir-focused and idiosyncratic wines that are not exported and that they were just as alarmed by the one-trick pony aspect of Malbec as I was. While they were delighted that an Argentinean product had so tantalized the wine-world, they asked that I remain open-minded about Malbec's growing pains but also to other varietals and their potential in Argentina. In specific, most of them pointed to the Cabernet or Cabernet/Malbec wines that have had recent critical praise. While not part of the eccentric club mentioned above, the wines are certainly worth noting. In addition to the constructive commentary, of great interest to me were the wine lists I received. What immediately jumped out was the lack of crossover on the lists - very few of them had the same wines. After inspecting all of the lists, only a few wines appeared on more than 50% of them, including this one: the 2006 Tikal Jubilo. This Cabernet/Malbec made 70% of the lists, by far the highest crossover. A journalist based in Buenos Aires summed up the Jubilo's appeal perfectly: "Unlike the braggadocio of a Lamborghini, the Jubilo is like a Maserati - still too fast and showy for some but teeming with style and reserve". Not only is this wine one of the more regarded in Argentina, it has also captured the attention of an international audience with its blend of modern and tradition. Coddled from start to finish, the Jubilo is the pet-project of Ernesto Catena (the son of the Catena family) and the quality is undeniably high. I have no doubt, if this hailed from Napa, it would be at least $75-125 which makes the $35 price very fair in the market. While certainly New World in style, it is a darn impressive effort that combines a deep, dark, fun-house style with an uncanny restraint that sets it apart (most likely from the unusually cool growing season in 2006 - think 2002 in the Barossa). I'm not going to compare this to Lafite or even Harlan for that matter, but I will put this up against a bevy of entrants from California (or Washington State) at far higher price-points. It even competes favorably with many $50-60+ Bordeaux, especially those from St. Emilion. The Catena family had unbelievable success in 2006 with eye-popping scores that were among the highest ever recorded from Argentina - this wine fits in nicely among that group. I always try to be a centrist on your behalf (despite my personal predilection toward the lean) and I have no doubt this wine will be swooned over by a large number of you. Think Leonetti falls in love with an old-money gaucho and you will be close. I have no experience with the Jubilo's ageing curve so I would opt to drink this in its sports car youth while all pistons are churning (although it may be worth the ageing experiment of 8-10 years). Maybe others can chime in with their Jubilo experience on the Forum Board? Only 350 cases produced: This parcel has impeccable provenance - I tried to keep the price as low as possible, about the same as in Mendoza: 2006 Tikal Jubilo (Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec) Mendoza Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Arg9900