Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  4/29/2009 (link)

  (PERLE Domaine Philemon) Sassicaia Dear Friends, A pristine parcel of 2004 Sassicaia is set to arrive and the wine may be even better than I originally stated last year. After tasting this wine again in Italy, I have to say, Ian d'Agata saw the forest through the trees and he should be acknowledged. While bottles in the US appear to be shaken, stirred and closed (in need of another year to integrate), the 2004 stock in Italy is divine (our parcel is coming directly from Livorno). While 2004 in Bolgheri has been highly touted from day one (it's one of the finest vintages in the history of this region, with a more classic quality than the other recent "vintage of the century", 2006, which is higher in extract and alcohol but certainly outstanding), the 2004 Sassicaia was a chameleon from the get-go but the material was always there waiting to unfurl. With a few years in bottle, this venerable Tuscan patriarch has begun to develop that magical "something" and it should continue to expand for the next 10-15 years. If you are a collector of First Growth Bordeaux or the most famous examples of the world, this is a top choice at a great price for what it is: ONE SHIPMENT ONLY at this price: 2004 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia (Bolgheri) Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Italy8611 Gaillac Dear Friends, If you make the wayward journey to Copujol to taste honey, you eventually carry on down the circuitous dirt track, over the mountains and toward the next frontier of vinous France - Gaillac. Gaillac has the unfortunate (or fortunate?) circumstance of position - landlocked, between various small mountainous regions to the east, north and south and (of most importance) a behemoth to the far west that has gripped the limelight for centuries...Bordeaux. What sets Gaillac apart from other regions trying to play catch-up to Bordeaux is their steadfast belief that they do not wish to compete with the Medoc. Unlike Bergerac or other regions, Gaillac has their own indigenous grapes that are wholly their own - they are not based on Cabernet or Merlot and they never wish to be. This is the land of Fer Servadou (Braucol), Duras and a particularly rugged version of Gamay for the reds - for white it is the famous Len de L'El, Mauzac, Ondenc and Sauvignon. What makes Gaillac red and white so interesting is the leaning toward an Atlantic personality (cool, light-medium weight with deft acidity) but the farmhand and rough personality of something like Cahors or Madiran. Where Cahors and Madiran can be just too much, too backward and stubborn - Gaillac is not. The red wine has a delicate backbone like a regal, old-school 12.5% Bordeaux but a density of fruit from the inland climate. The red wines from this region are dark colored and full of cool-toned grit - they supposedly have some of the highest polyphenol/resveratrol/anti-oxydent ratios of any wine in Europe and also the lowest alcohol. The white wines can be particularly alluring as well, with a style between white Bordeaux (no oak) and that of Pouilly-Fume or even Muscadet for certain renditions of Perle - a local AOC recognized white that is ever so effervescent and piquant (like Txacoli) but with a reserve like Pouilly-Fume. In Gaillac you can still chart your own path - there is no pressure to keep up with the Ducru's and that's just what you will find in this enchanting area. One of the shining stars of this emerging region is Mathieu Vieules and his Domaine Philemon. His family has tended grapes in this area since 1803 and they know the terroir. Not only does he grow grapes in the most natural way but he is also known for his sunflowers and special brand of organic wheat. A wine enthusiast could do a lot worse than to stumble across the fastidiously crafted bargain treasures that Vieules so tenderly bottles. He vinifies from the heart and (if the antioxidant rich concoctions that he tends to are in any way a benefit to health), they may be good for the heart as well. Both are VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED for education, quality and superb value: 2008 Domaine Philemon Gaillac "Perle" (blanc)- $9.99 This is the quintessential Perle - a white blend of Len de L'EL and Mauzac (with old-vine Sauvignon) that mimics a cross between the above noted Muscadet and Pouilly-Fume. This version has less effervescence than some CO2 heavy examples (Philemon's is considered more regal and thus can get away with less trapped CO2 to cover the flaws). This gorgeous white wine is from the lowest yields in nearly all of Gaillac - kept open in a cold cellar (or, heresy aside, the fridge) it will keep for days. Refreshing, cleansing, mouthwatering but still quite full on the palate for a medium weight wine, this is the ultimate summer wine and a poster child expression of the 2008 vintage throughout France. With exposure to oxygen, the Perle opens and is best after 30-45 minutes and beyond. 11.5-12.0% alcohol. Serve ice cold out on the terrace. 2007 Domaine Philemon Gaillac "Croix d'Azal" (rouge) Ah yes, 2007 - is it 2007 in Bordeaux or 2007 in the Southern Rhone? Gaillac lies nearly equidistant from both? Thankfully, they are inland enough that it was like 2007 around Avignon but the unique cooling influence of the Atlantic-influenced nighttime air makes this unique. Sound ideal? It is. Many would classify the Gaillac style as a cross between St. Estephe and Saumur-Champigny. If you are into Loire reds or the more cool-toned versions of Bordeaux, this is a wine that will broaden your wine knowledge and give you an understanding that the future of French wine production lies in the hands of a result such as this, not with the next vintage of Latour. From vines with an average age of 50-60 years, this special cuvee is 100% Braucol (a rarity - Braucol is prized in this region and most of it is blended to increase production). Braucol means "The Bull" in local dialect but this is more like a Harvard educated bull than a raging one. This red wine has a lovely deep red colour and a powerful nose of forest, fruit and flowers. The palate is a full flavored amalgam of red fruit, minerality, tannin and hints of spice - all in a lithe frame. With only 12.0-12.5% alcohol, the signature cold-toned grape skin of Gaillac is present in a medium weight "northerly" wine with hardly any alcohol. This Braucol is a wine I could drink everyday - in fact, I have been for the last four. Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA SOFR7940 SOFR7950