Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  8/27/2009 (link)

  (CLASSICO Sartarelli Verdicchio) 2008 Classico Dear Friends, If you've been sitting on the sidelines this summer, now's the time to pick up the bat and start swinging. To be blunt - both of the wines below vie for the finest white wine values of the season (especially the Classico) and they are priced like bulk cast-offs. As I referenced yesterday with the 2008 Dolcetto, I'm committed to freshness and bringing wine to your doorstep 6-12 months before it would normally arrive in the US (under typical import circumstances). The 2008 Verdicchio Classico from Sartarelli was only bottled a month ago and it has already arrived in Seattle - it's as close as you can get to bringing a tank sample home from your Italian vacation. Verdicchio (as a whole) gets little attention in the US but it can appeal to a similar palate as Albarino or even Chenin Blanc. Castelli di Jesi (near the Adriatic in Italy's Marche region) is the epicenter for Verdicchio production in Europe and Sartarelli is among the very best producers in the district. When you combine the highest level of quality with pricing that would be reasonable circa 1985, you have a consumer-oriented producer of the highest order: 2008 Sartarelli Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi "Classico" DOC (Marches) This wine should make all of us rethink our buying strategy - if Sartarelli can produce something this well-crafted at less than $10, then why does the industry bother with so many marginal bottles at $30-50+? The 2008 version of the Classico takes the 2007 to an even more mineral-infused place but its essence is the same - one of Europe's finest bargains that begs for a plate of fresh fish or vegetables with a splash of extra virgin olive oil and sea salt. VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED - this would be a terrific choice for Thanksgiving as well. 12.0-12.5% alcohol. A few other opinions.... 2007 Sartarelli Verdicchio die Castelli di Jesi "Tralivio" Superiore DOC (Marches) This is Sartarelli's top dry Verdicchio but it still has approximately 3g of RS (the Balciana, their most expensive entrant, is vinified dry but it is from late harvest material picked in mid-November and it retains 5-7 g of residual sugar). The Tralivio is quite different from the Classico but equally enticing - it has a Vouvray-like quality but its intention is crisp and palate cleansing (despite a richer stature). From a specific vineyard at close to 1000ft in elevation, this wine is culled from a very strict selection - it has higher alcohol than the Classico (with more palate impact) but no loss of nuance or cut. This wine is severely underpriced for the quality but it is not necessarily better than the Classico, more of a yin vs yang. It is also VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED: Another opinion... While the price is up on both wines, the current prices are still ridiculous for the field they are playing in. Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Italy6966 Italy6967