Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  11/16/2009 (link)

  (Hexagonales (blanc)) Hexagonales Dear Friends, In France, the term Les Hexagonales refers to the country itself, or more accurately, the shape of the country - a hexagon of sorts that reveals itself if you squint in just the right way (or converse with any number of politically charged locals at the neighborhood cafÄ). In vinous terms, certain winemakers use the phrase to describe a wine that is not four-square - rather a wine of more than four sides - in this case six. Esoteric? Yes, but I believe you understand the reasoning behind the logic. A wine with more than four sides is closer to the three dimensional expression that most winemakers strive for. In France, there is a certain tongue-in-cheek use of the phrase with regard to wine - it symbolizes a three dimensional expression of wine (and France) but also a slight mocking of the country itself - usually in a social or political sense. When tasting with progressive winemakers, it's tough to tell which is more important - the hexagonal expression of the wine or their commentary with regard to the future of France? Oh yes, tonight's wine... The 2008 Les Hexagonales is a joy - it is exactly the type of wine you would be served in a little-known bistro in Touraine. It is for everyday, sans pretense, with a boatload of personality to fill the glass instead. Don't expect any miracles but do expect a detailed sense of place and loads of lime-infused refreshing (and quenching) green-tinged Sauvignon that will bring a smile to the face of Dressner-heads far and wide (although this wine has nothing to do with Dressner). If you enjoy Puzelat, Bernard from the Savoie or just a great value for any night of the week, the 2008 Hexagonales requires little contemplation to enjoy. What you see is what you get and, with this no-oak varietal example, you get a whole lot for $11+. In sum, this is one of the better examples of its type in Touraine: HIGHLY RECOMMEDED as a top Monday night value that unfolds a surprising array of filigreed layers as it aerates: 2008 Les Hexagonales Blanc (Merieau) Touraine Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Loire7335