Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  1/9/2010 (link)

  (GRAND CLOS Rose) 2009 Dear Friends, I just completed a tasting with one of my favorite producers in Provence, Domaine du Clos d'Alari, and they have a doozy of an 2009 Rose' in store for you. This wine has been very popular in the past as a thinking man (or woman's) Rose with non-intervention and light-handed/austere extraction the norm. If you are used to sweet and high octane Rose, this is not for you - it's typically the equivalent of a Saumur meshed with the terroir of the Var. In 2009, that style is driven to the cliffs of Dover and politely pushed off the edge. The 2009 Grand Clos Rose' (their top example, they also make a version that doesn't make the cut for this wine) is a gorgeous bottle of Provencal wine. It has everything the 2008 and previous vintages claimed as a calling card (acidity, femininity) but the delicate components are amplified and given a tensile framework that is coating instead of simply austere. From what is obviously a great growing season, this wine has layers of well-versed and filigreed floral fruit that still require Alari's signature contemplation to fully appreciate. The Grand Clos is grown and bottled for a higher purpose rather than simply bowling you over with sugary, glycerol Grenache and it's obvious if you insert this wine in a line-up of competitors (the Grand Clos has a high percentage of Mourv_dre and Cinsault). Where the 2008 relied more on its acidity, the 2009 has more complete elements that spill into a fresh-pressed basket of citrus fruit. The wine refreshes with a light hand but also pulls in those that veer toward more power. In other words, a terrific balancing act of strength and nervous energy. Should be downright fabulous come this summer... (most examples of Provencal Rose' in this class are at least $20). We also have a very small allocation of their hand-picked/hand-made estate extra virgin olive oil. This oil sells out the first few days after release and it is prized by chefs in the South but also throughout Europe. Olive oil from Saint-Antonin-du-Var is among the most expensive in the world and it is quite different than Tuscan or Spanish oil. High quality oil of this area tastes of feminine olives, not of green grass or artichoke and Alari's 2009 is from a near-perfect growing season (unlike other areas of Europe where it was almost too hot in 2009 for olives). Only available in large 1.0lt bottles, this is as direct from the earth as it gets - only picked and pressed a few days ago. Tasting a lick off the finger is all that is needed to insure you are a convert. Very rare. To solve logistical issues with meeting the Spring shipping season deadline, both of these items have already been bottled and labeled for us to insure they arrive in plenty of time for you to receive them this Spring. That's our version of fresh-direct (the grapes for the Rose' were still on the vine a few months ago). As a side note - we had last year's 2008 Grand Clos Rose' in magnum but the 2009 is only available in 750ml - they want to spread it around as far as they can (they're quite proud of the result and demand for 2009 Rose' across Provence is going to be robust). HIGHLY RECOMMEDED as a steal of a deal on domaine-direct 2009 wine and olive oil of the finest order (not to mention Nathalie, the proprietor, is among the nicest people in the trade): ONE SHIPMENT ONLY This parcel is directly from the winery cellar with perfect provenance: 2009 Domaine du Clos d'Alari CÖtes de Provence "Grand Clos" Rose' (This is not the regular Cotes de Provence Rose' which is not in this league) 2009 Domaine du Clos d'Alari Extra Virgin Olive Oil (estate pressing) 1.0lt EXTREMEMLY LIMITED Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA SOFR8901 Olive7010