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93 Points

Saturday, July 1, 2023 - 7.5% abv. AP 6. Bottle open yesterday. NOSE: Red Delicious apple peel. Ginger. Citrus pith. MOUTH: pitch perfect hook, generously fresh sweetness belonging with significant, broad-spectrum acidity. Roots and aromatic leaves burst open by force of seasonal lemon/lime-ade. Garnish it with fennel and mint. Access is maximized with cold service; north of 60° F it shows its importance.

I'll triangulate with two other Ludes' 2021s: Thörnicher Kabinett and Gackes Unten Feinherb. This item—Gackes Oben Kabinett—is more straightforward and playful than either. Also, it's sweeter, but not insistently. In complexity it rivals GUF, just prettier and more lofted. It doesn't have the inertia of TK, but it thrusts from its root in a way that suggests transformational upside.

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