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98 Points

Monday, April 18, 2016 - Well, this is it. This is why you age wine. A treat to drink Biondi-Santi anytime. A very special treat to drink a fully mature Riserva. It pours out a translucent rusty orange/amber color but turns more ruby in the decanter. The aromatics are positively ancient. This reminds me of some of the late 19C/early 20C Bordeaux on the Bern's list. Full of old crypt-like scents, cigar tobacco, and sweet nuttiness. There is no fruit left at all. It is fully tertiary, but still at the point where it is packed with character rather than being anonymously autumnal. It's sticky and persistent though it seems to still have a line of acidity keeping it in form, though beyond that whatever structure is left is totally subsumed by the material.

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